OME springs on RR classic

I have on Discos, and I can't think they're that much different...

I agree with Niamh, it's not a major job if you have a jack, axle stands, a socket set and some spring compressors. You don't necessarily need the compressors, but having tried it without, I'd warn against it. You can pick up a set for 20 quid at a motor factors, but make sure they're up to the job - I had a set (from Machine Mart) which bent under load, which is highly dangerous to say the least.

If you want to try without the compressors, you're going to need to remove the anti-roll bars, if you have any, and drop the axle as far as possible at each corner in turn, but watch the brake pipes. You may or may not find this gives you enough space to get the spring out.

Tip of the Day: put the compressors on the spring when the spring is already compressed (eg, when removing the old springs, put the compressors on them *before* you jack the body up) because it saves a lot of compressing. Ditto when removing them - put the new spring in, drop the body so the weight is on the spring, and *then* remove the compressor.

Have fun, David

Have replaced springs on two RRCs. Both genuine heavy duty and WBH progressives

Tip [1] You'll need two pairs of spring compressors because a single pair that is big enough to compress the springs enough to get them under the rear chassis mounted spring cups (or whatever they're called) will not fit in the available space. Use them as pairs in turn to compress the springs before removal and fitting.

'Proper' spring compressors have a pair of 'Y' shaped forgings - the legs of each 'Y' are connected by the threaded rod and the two fingers grip the spring. These are small enough fit round the spring in situ and do not fly off easily but not long enough to fully compress the spring and do not fly off easily. The cheap and nasty compressors (sub £20) have only simple hooks linked by the threaded rod. I think that they are not suitable for use alone on RR springs as the fingers do not grip the springs. These do slip off and I only use these to hold the spring while refitting the decent compressors. I resisted paying big money for the decent compressors and hired them along with the high lift jack.

Tip [2] You'll be jacking on the chassis to lift the body off the compressed spring. For this you'll need a high lift jack or lots of frightening bits of packing. Also a little jack will be useful when you remove the wheels.

Tip [3] Undo the rear dampers at the axle rather than pulling the split pins from the top mounting - getting them back can be a real pain.

Tip [4] The bolts securing the plates that holds the rear springs on the axle can get very rusty - lots of Liquid Spanner!

Tip [5] You might be surprised at how high you have to lift the chassis off the axles before the springs fall out.

Tip [6] ARBs are best unbolted from the chassis

BOL - it's a straightforward job made hard work purely by the weight and size of the components and less than brilliant access (at the back)

Richard

Thanks all for your replies...

Did it on an 89 RRC. No problems. I too did it without a spring compressor. The local auto parts store will also rent. Spring compressors may make the job easier. How are your springs? If you are going to go through the trouble replacing the front dampers you might want to think about upgrading the springs to OME. I got my springs with a 3 in. lift from