Re: V8 into Series III again

best engine for a landy, well probably..

I had an engine from a P5, no problems with it. The exhaust manifold came out of turners skip - thats where the engine came from- he said it was from a 110.

I had a P5 3 litre gearbox - i think- and there were no box probs.

There is a post about a month ago that I put the phone number of whoever it was took over the milner adapters. I do have an adapter and was thinking of casting more if there was a bit of demand.

or I can flog you a good 2.25 engine for £50... It's all complete and ready to go...

-- richard

Blimey thats more chopped members than in the Texas chainsaw masacre! I didn't chop or move 1 member fitting the 4.2 Jag lump and auto (I do however recall one tense moment however when my fingers became an engine mount for an extremely short and painful moment)....but then the body was off also...I don't think it's gong to be possible to remove the head with out dropping the bulkhead back.....but then I don't like to do it the easy way :-)

Lee

-- Project Percy - Jaguar 4.2 and Auto in to Series IIa 88 see it @

alt.fan.landrover hall of fame -

I've heard reports from both sides as to the wisdom of this - some people are of the opinion that it's very complicated, and with a lot to potentially go wrong, however there are enough people who say that they've done it without too many problems that I'm willing to give it a go. I know a few good Land Rover mechanics (a benefit of club membership :-) ), and they're willing to lend a hand.

I've contacted the guy who took over supplying the Milner kits, and he was very helpful and informative. There's a couple of inches have to come out of the bulkhead on each side, and there's a template supplied in the instructions. Also, new headers may be needed, and he can supply them. A few other bits & pieces too, but it all seems do-able.

Andrew

"Lee_D"

Yeah I know a lot of moving and cutting involved but I wanted the engine to be accessible for servicing, wanted to use standard V8 LR exhaust system, and put the air cleaner under the bonnet as well. By moving the engine forward and centering it in the chassis you dont have to chop into the firewall which (IMHO) always looks crappy no matter how good you are at sheet metal bending. The other advantage is that the exhaust system exits as it should down on the inside of the chassis - not with a ninety degree bend and then down the outside of the chassis.

I had a donor chassis to pick bits off so pre fabricating most parts was possible, just using some of the good chassis steel to make up the engine mounts was a bonus.

--

I would have guessed a pinion angle of 2 degrees or so would be about right.

-- richard

I did a bit of research about extended drive shafts, changing drive angles etc. and it seemed to be that as long as the gearbox and diff flanges parallel then the vibration problems associated with drive shaft mis alignment seemed to be alleviated. I'm still finishing off the project so have not driven the beastie yet - so time will tell if the collective wisdom of the Internet is right.