I have noticed on several occasions that this has been mentioned before but has anyone any details etc.
The current setup is the original semi viscouse which probably takes about
5hp from the engine to run. I have a possible replacement fan that I could use from a feista (11" 4 blade type), but the problem I have is the switching on and off seems difficult. Has anyone come across an easy solution to this. ie added a sender switch, or is there one already in the system that is usable to link to? And is the fan from a feista big enough to cope with the demand.
|| Vehicle: 96' 300 Tdi Disco. || || Hi all, || || I have noticed on several occasions that this has been mentioned || before but has anyone any details etc. || || The current setup is the original semi viscouse which probably takes || about 5hp from the engine to run. I have a possible replacement fan || that I could use from a feista (11" 4 blade type), but the problem || I have is the switching on and off seems difficult. Has anyone come || across an easy solution to this. ie added a sender switch, or is || there one already in the system that is usable to link to? And is || the fan from a feista big enough to cope with the demand. || || Thanks in advance || || Tim
Both Kenlowe and Pacet do fan kits for the purpose. Thermostat plumbs into the top hose to make it fully automatic (and adjustable). Take power from permanent live or switched live - your choice, but make sure it's via a relay. I dunno if 11" will be enough for the 300Tdi, but I know that the standard installation for a V8 is twin fans. The usual advice is "get the biggest that will fit". With an expensive engine like that, you don't want to be short on cooling capacity (and if it's bigger than you need, it will just run for shorter periods).
On Percy (Jag powered IIa) I have twin fans from a citroen AX which are about the right profile (thin) to fit behind the grill and between the rad.
The Jaguar Radiator was taken to a back street radiator specialist and had a thread soldered into the side tank. This cost me a large £5.00 ukp.
I then fitted a switch which came off something like an Astra GTE where the switch had been mounted at a similar height up the radiator tanks (The top gets hottest) and then wired in a relay to supply the power to the fans. There is also a dashboard mounted switch as an override should I get a relay/sensor failure to suply 12volts via a second relay to the fans.
The whole set up cost under £20.... Make sure the fans are blowing into the rad if mounted in front of the rad between the rad and grill..if you get it wrong not only is it useless in cooling but makes one hell of a drain on the battery if blowing against the airflow at say 70mph.
Finally build a good frame to mount the fans to and leave good clearance between the fans and the rad otherwise a blade will turn what is a cheap economical conversion into a very expensive replacement radiator.
Also did a similar conversion to my old V8 Rangie. Now major difference in economy noted but was much quieter without the fan running all the time.
Just avoid what I didn't do, and replace the thickness of the fan you remove with washers. I ended up rattling the fan plate off its fitting, which obviously stopped the water pump working, on my 83 S111.
I must admit that all the steam that came from the engine really did clean my pores out though. They should try it on 'The Salon'
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