Roof Tents + Paint

Used one in Namibia, think it was an eezi-awn. Seemed really good and was nice to sleep in. Am toying with the idea of one. Any thoughts, comments or recommendations would be appreciated. Think I will have a look at some at malvern or peterborough.

Secondly, have a 101 to paint. Thinking probably desert colour. Want to keep it sort of original military type coulour without it looking military if that makes sense. Other colour sugestions appreciated (not purple, martyn, alan would kill me). I'm after the impossible really, a really good finish, but on the cheap. Looking around at spray companies at the moment, so if you know of any in the Stratford upon avon area...

Many Thanks

Graham

Reply to
Graham G
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I found that the local big bus/coach operator has his own paintshop available to do big jobs like an ambi.There must be someone near Stratford ?

Steve

Reply to
steve Taylor

So would I :-)

Are you keeping the racking in the back?

If not, can I put my hand up for it (I'm intent upon a Radbod resto at some point, and the racking, with some kit, would look quite neat at shows).

Sand is good on a radbod - but to keep it really authentic, you need a

6" paintbrush (or a good 4" gloss roller like wot I used on Grumble).
Reply to
Mother

...and it should be applied over dried mud. Steve

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Reply to
steve Taylor

Was going to take it out, but put it into storage so it could be put back in. If I decide to get rid of it I'll be sure to let you know. Had thought about leaving it in and just moving it further back. Haven't looked at it too closely.

What i want to achieve is to keep it as near original as I can, but at the same time making it usable. Have no plans to turn it into a camper, think it would be a shame given how original it is. Anything I do will be able to be undone, thats the plan anyway!

Again comes down to the compromise really, wanted original army type colour and style without military look and squaddie artistic ability. Hence sand and hence spray. however, the finish you achieved is good so that might be the way to go, esp given the quotes I've had. Hate painting with a passion though, might be a job for emma.

Graham

Reply to
Graham G

and on the hotest day in the year so that when its washed it comes off in big sheets!!

Any ideas on the roof tent? thought it would mean i could keep the inside fairly original, but still be able to camp in resonable comfort. When it comes to it though, I might just end up building a free standing wooden affair inside for ease and cost, probably be more comfortable against the elements.

Its a tough one, am acutely aware of how original the rad bod is and not wanting to destroy it, yet at the same time, there is no point in having it unless I can use it and enjoy it.

Graham

Reply to
Graham G

bugger, thats that plan out the window then ;o)

Alan gave me strict instructions that if I painted it yellow, orange, purple or any other such colour, he would be hiring a hit squad :o) Emma wanted mauve! Think sand will have to do, or a close approximation to.

Reply to
Graham G

Marinas and Minis were painted back in the seventies ( its probably the camel trophy colour now) but what sets military vehicles apart is the absolute mattness of the paint. If you get it mixed up as a gloss or semi gloss it will look quite different to the original . steve the grease

Reply to
R L Driver

I had thoughts along similar lines. Did't want a real glossy finish cos then I'd need to be very fussy about removing all slight dings in the panels (& RBs have a lot). Thought a Satin finish might look ok??

Graham

Reply to
Graham G

Was going to take it out, but put it into storage so it could be put back in. If I decide to get rid of it I'll be sure to let you know. Had thought about leaving it in and just moving it further back. Haven't looked at it too closely.

What i want to achieve is to keep it as near original as I can, but at the same time making it usable. Have no plans to turn it into a camper, think it would be a shame given how original it is. Anything I do will be able to be undone, thats the plan anyway!

Again comes down to the compromise really, wanted original army type colour and style without military look and squaddie artistic ability. Hence sand and hence spray. however, the finish you achieved is good so that might be the way to go, esp given the quotes I've had. Hate painting with a passion though, might be a job for emma.

Graham

Reply to
Graham G

You have to be really fussy with your preparation if you choose gloss. Matt IMO is too flat and is difficult to clean and keep clean. Semi-gloss or satin is a happy medium, it's easy to clean looks good and doesn't show up all the imperfections.

Steve

Reply to
Stephen Hull

I'll go with that, the 100% matt I recently sprayed looks good but boy does it show those greasy thumbprints, and if you wipe them off it just makes it worse. Thing is, the bodywork was good enough to get away with a nice Deep Bronze Green but that would have meant spit and polish everywhere else to match it, then there would have been the tyres to polish...

All the best

Reply to
wayne

Sold!!

I'd pretty much already decided against gloss, cos as you rightly point out the task of prep-ing it would be mamouth. I hadn't considered the rest, but you are right I'd have to do the chassis, wheels etc etc. My GS is in matt, it does look really nice, but as you rightly say is a bugger for showing marks. its also terrible for trying to touch up (whole vehicle or nothing), not sure if satin would be be4tter from this point of view but it couldn't be worse.

Next question, where is best/cheapest to get the paint?? As far as I can figure its either anchor or "war paint".

Another thing that occured to me today; the inside is painted with this anti-condensation paint. On the whole its not too bad, however in quite a few places it has kind of blistered and is pealing off (metal behind is fine, its the paint). Any suggestions how to approach this? If I neet to re-paint, were on earth do you get it, I did't even know there was a such thing until I started investigating??

Thanks

Graham

Reply to
Graham G

Stephen Hull's website has some good pointers for sources, and there was a guy at Eastnor "Paintman" ? Who sold paint for Landies

Steve

Reply to
steve Taylor

You could try these guys, their green isn't too bad. I had the pink mixed to an existing wet sample (easier to match apparently) but the place I used said that the NATO green was a colour they had a formula for (albeit without the IRR proberties etc. Thing is, there is more than one type of green out there even on the real thing.

You've got a roof? Luxury.

Reply to
wayne

I'll have a look, cheers.

He's quite expensive compared to some. Thats not to say the paint isn't better. Its a job to weigh it up

Graham

Reply to
Graham G

Which guys? war paint?

I know, its got windows too, ain't I posh! :o)

Reply to
Graham G

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Duh, sorry. I went all giddy at the prospect of totty sitting on the pinkie.

Reply to
wayne

I couldn't possibly answer that question I might be accused of being biased ;)

Blisters are usually caused by moisture trapped underneath or within the paint itself and when heated this moisture will expand and burst through the substrate in the form of blisters. Peeling is generally caused by lack of adhesion perhaps bad preparation.

Oddly enough anti-condensation paint is water based, however you've no idea if the preparation was done properly on the vehicle to accommodate this special paint in the first place. To remedy the problem I would scrape off the failed paint, rub with a scotch-pad and repaint in the same anti-condensation paint if possible and hope that you can match the same colour.

Steve.

Reply to
Stephen Hull

I'd recommend a commercial paint manufacturer. I used Stokes paints in Sheffield (handy, only half a mile away) and had them make a special machine enamel with extra matting agent (just give them the colour code). This goes on very easily with a 4" gloss roller and achieves a reasonable finish IMO.

Being a machine enamel means it's very hard wearing. I've two coats on most of Grumble, and when it's fully cured (about a week in warm weather) you can hit it with a hammer (oops) and it'll not care. It's also pretty good at coping with various nasties, like oil, petrol and the like - when one of the local scroats 'tagged' the side of Grumble, I simply wiped it off with Acetone, the paint wasn't really affected at all.

Best off, it costs a lot less to go to the manufacturer and means I have (literally) bucketloads left for touching up areas that get duffed, scratched or, erm, missed during the original job :-)

Reply to
Mother

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