Sailsbury Diff removal.

See workshop manual. You will note two recesses each side of the diff housing opposite the pinion side. To remove the diff assembly it is necessary to move these apart slightly using a some form of spreader. One variety uses a screw between the end of a pair of pivoted arms with lugs to go in the socket about half way along each arm. As the force needed is considerable, the whole setup has to be pretty sturdy. Fine adjustment is needed as it is important to only spread the housing just enough, overdo it and you permanently distort the housing, converting it to scrap. JD

And what a crap idea it is. The responsibility for this abominable creation is the Dana Corporation of America. What WERE they thinking of? Why did they not make the hole a few millimetres bigger?

Huw

Hence I made the tool, I used a dial gauge to measure the spread accurately, and at 6 thou deflection, the diff gauge fell out into my waiting hands. Others have used chains and twelve foot scaffolding poles. Take your pick....

Steve

Presumably you are being tongue in cheek ?

Steve

A scary movie.... (20 meg mind!)

All that for just 6 bloody thou!?

It seems a tad excessive, doesn't it.

Its a hell of a load on the case though to get that deflection, so the bearings get a very hefty preload. Quite clever really.

Steve

Of course not. Do *you* think it is a good idea to have to use a case expander to get the diff out?

Huw

Clever? It's you that's joking now. You must be? It's a bloody abomination. Lucky then that they are generally reliable and strong so they don't need much attention normally.

Huw

Huw wrote: they are generally reliable and strong so they don't need

You don't think that speaks for itself ?

Steve

No! There are tens and hundreds of thousands of different reliable diffs in all kind of vehicles that don't need case expanders to remove.

Huw

Different ? You reckon ?

Steve

steve uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Well I think I've now got my head around the principle. The expander is not as I thought to afford enough space to get the crown wheel out but infact to release the preload which is generated by the case it's self (in the horizontal pane) and the correct shimming of the bearings to sort out the Diff backlash. In effect shoehorning the diff in and out, but the amount of actual movement is minimal.

I've probably been told that twice today but until you actually work it out in your own mind then it's meaningless or it was to me...

I've also got my head around the crushable collapseable doofer to again set up the preload of the pinion... I had to do a similar thing (minus the collapseable bit) when I assembled the IIa/Jag auto conversion transfer case.

I can now see the logic in Steves hypothasis and understand that the design whilst frustrating to the technical lego experts like myself is actually a positive... several hours ago I was cossing it somewhat though.

There has to be some strength in this principle as it's pretty much the only off the shelf Landrover Diff people flock to when uprating drivetrains, such as myself fitting a Sailsbury axle on my swb IIa when insalling the Jag lump. I was ignorant as to why they were better but now feel I've seen the light.

Having also done further reading I wish Landrover had fitted some of the LSD / Lockers available from Dana range which would have further improved the standard performance of the marque, but I suppose it's a bit like the Freelander and Low ratios, how many will actually ever really need it.

Lee D

Well, could at least one of you explain the pros & cons of either?

--

Subaru WRX 'get behind me you weak minded fools'[ Range Rover 4.6 HSE 'comfy ride to hell' KTM 520, 'not for the faint hearted as they say.........'

We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!

I'm a bit lost on them too.

When you pull yours apart you'll have to let me know and ill pop round and have a gander. I often dont understant stuff properly till ive seen it being pulled to pieces!

are 101 diffs a different ratio to 109 salisburies then? I can find you a 109 salisbury axle.

Tom Woods uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Stage 1 (109) 3.56:1 Nearly all other 109's 4.7:1

Thanks for the thought though.

Lee D

On or around Fri, 30 Jun 2006 12:17:47 +0100, "Huw" enlightened us thusly:

have to agree with Huw, there. There's no good reason for making an aperture which is fractionally too small. and IIRC the difference is really small, not more than about 1 or 2mm.

what I don;t know is why people don't, instead of pissing around with stretching the casing, take and angle grinder to the edges of the hole and make it the mm or so wider that it needs to be. Is there any good reason not to?

Cons of Salisbury [Dana] axle....... case needs expanding to remove diff Pros of other axles....... case does not need expanding to remove diff.

Huw

I have many tractors of many brands with diffs in front and back axles, all of which have cast iron housings and none of which need expanders [obviously] and all of which are reliable. There is no reason that Dana could not make a reliable axle that didn't need the case stretching to service certain components.

Huw