I am intending fitting axle breathers to my S3 109 petrol for playing in the water.
I have read previous posts on this topic and also read comments on gearbox breathers. Having recently changed my gearbox I don't recall having removed any breather from the old box or seen anything fitted to the new box. I presume they must be present for the same reasons an axle requires them. Any body know where I may find the gearbox breather. Does the transfer box also require a breather?
I was at the LRO show at the weekend and either Simmonites or Rebel4x4 had S3 snorkels. Has anybody fitted one to a standard oil bath filter/can it be done?
Most/All of the water and mud that ends up in the air filter is probably there as a result of the fan spraying the engine. At what point should I worry about fitting a snorkel?
We fitted one to a sIII lightweight, swapped the oil bath for a Raro filterbox & mounted on the nearside inner bulkhead area then came through the panels with the pipework.
Button bashing in practice for another round of Daley Thompson's Decathlon, "Martin (Wirral, UK)" left Shakespeare to the monkeys by typing...
Pull the ballbearing cap (or vent cap) on axle, check external diameter of 'vent pipe' and buy enough flexible (like diesel spill pipe) to run along axle, up onto chassis and affix at level you think is above your prospective water line.
You seem to be confusing breathers and pipework attached to the breathers. If the box has any point where water can enter, this must be sealed for wading. (in water deeper than breather height). If a breather is present and you want to wade, you must 'snorkel' the breather to above your prospective wade depth.
Junk the oil bath, and flexipipe the carb to a point on either windscreen pillar (on bulkhead) - your choice of route. 2feet of vertical (can't remember the spec, but local plastic pipe co. will be able to help (don't use plastic drainpipe - it shatters, goes brittle in UV, and stops your gutters falling down )), a filter (similar to K&N57i - conefilter) on the top end and a bean tin for when it's parked (and might rain) Visit LR shows/rallies and photo what you see. Make your own for 10% of what some 'reputable companies' charge for them. Redesign until you are 100% satisfied and then market the kit for an inflated price (Not that I'm bitter or twisted or anything, but I know where Scorpion's extreme long-travel suspension kit came from....)
I'm starting to put together my ideas for an extreme leaf setup. But this is just for trialling - road manners aren't important at the moment. The theory is simple, but the fact that my welding is "could do (much) better" is a bit of a problem.
Then - the diy chassis - have a close look at LR chassis - I did. You can make one in a day (simpler, stronger, no mudtraps, easier repaired/ modified)
Then - (this one's a long term project) - hillrally LR with much improved handling, inherent stability, and a design that makes it almost impossible to roll. And a change of shocks to make an extremely extreme trialler. I saw the beginnings of this idea about 20 years ago and told no-one as it's going to appear on a hillrally near you (probably in another 20 years time but by that time I'll have modded the coiller to take a Stannah....)
At the point where your engine sucks water, not air
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