Testbook questions

I'm not all that familiar with testbook, but if I were you I'd get it straight back to the $pecialist and ensure that he understands 100% that it didn't do it before, so he'd better fix whatever "he" did to it. Badger.

You need to check with the LR specialist but the management system on your vehicle is one of those that "learns" how you drive. It is generally said that it can take about 400 miles before it gets itself sorted out again and adapts itself to the engine and your driving style.

The temp gauge doesn't sound right though.... I'm not sure that that is "controlled" or adjusted by the engine management system.

cheers

Dave W.

Alan> the codes, looked quizical, then selected 'reset all' on the Alan> engine management computer. It came up with some warnings Alan> like 'settings will be lost, 'ensure throttle is closed' Alan> etc.

What he did was to reset both the fault codes and the adaptive settings on the vehicle. Now, that may have been the right thing to do - I don't know without knowing the specific fault codes that appeared. But I do know that the reset of the adaptive values will be responsible for the problem you now describe...

Alan> Now the base engine idle speed is far too slow, the car Alan> nearly stalls when you stop at junctions etc, but the idle Alan> speed will then climb back to normal. Makes moving in a car Alan> park real fun! Also noticed that the temp gauge now reads Alan> in the red, and the engine is definately not overherating. Alan> Are these symptons of a badly set up car afer being reset by Alan> trst book?

You clearly DO have a problem somewhere. With the adaptive values at default, the engine is not happy. Hot suggests running too lean, perhaps. It should come back to normality within 30-50 miles.

If the light stays off, all well and good. If it doesn't, come back with the exact fault codes (test book supports screen dump to printer), and the adaptive values before and after the reset.

Then we have some information to make some intelligent assumptions about where the problem lies.

ANdy

Really just an update - Engine is not running hot, traced temp gauge fault to the sensor, got a spare anyway, but cleaned the contacts and all back to normal. Fault codes - I've got an OBD II code reader/reset tool which works pretty good on this Rangie. It was giving a P1187 code, according to Andy's site this is "O2 sensor heater short" but according to the manual is heater open circuit. Took the O2 sensors out (again, only replaced them 3000 miles ago) and one was open circuit. Replaced under waranty anyway. Check engine light stays out, no new codes, good! Low idle still eident though, revs drop when braking to a standstill, more so when cold, and sometimes stalls. Revs will climb to normal idle mostly. Will have a go at finding the not mentioned base idle screw in the plenum somewhere! Wish me luck!

Alan C

Don't play with the base idle - as others have stated the 'adaptive learning' will take 500 miles or so to sort this one out on it's own.

I HAD to do something, the car would stall when pulling up at junctions and manoeuvring into a parking space was really fun! Found the blasted screw, under the tamper proof plug on the plenum above where the idle control valve is fitted. Gave the screw about a 3/4 turn anti-clockwise. This had no effect on the idle speed when I restarted the engine, but it now does not drop below 600rpm when pulling up. All sorted. Then RPI returned my phone call and confirmed that occasionally the base idle will need to be reset. Much happier drive :)

BTW - The adaptive learning has over the last 300 miles or so made the engine smoother and more powerful feeling, but made no difference to the idle characteristics.

Alan C