1. Home
  2. Land Rover 4WD vehicles
  3. the brakes saga...

the brakes saga...

I just speant around 4 hours fiddling with the rear brakers on my 110. I got new shoes today as one site had uneven wear due to a spting being put on wrong and was also contaminated with hydrolic fluid from the cylinder, replace a week or so ago.

it seemed to take forever trying to adjust teh shoes right, I'm still not happy with the right side as I think there is too much resistance there with the brakes off, but I can still turn it by hand so I'll see if it's better in a week.

But now my 110 stops like it's got anchors, I am a happy bunny.

Now to soak in the bath and read the workshop manual, I need to decide if the timing belt is something I can do myself.

That reminds me, Dayco timing belts, are they ok or what? £7 something from paddocks..

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.
Loading thread data ...

Dayco"Isoran" belts were originally called Pirelli "Isoran" but probably got bought up by the Septics and renamed, original equipment on Citroen /Peugeot where they are given a service life of 72000 miles . A top quality belt in my opinion . Glad the bleeder worked. steve the grease

Reply to
R L Driver

its a 2.5n/a isnt it? If so then the timing belt isnt theoretically that hard, providing that all the bits come off correctly and easily first! When i did mine i had to deal with 2 snapped bolts, and a bottom pulley that wouldnt budge (had to get it taken off with a heavy duty air gun, and i think it took 2 or 3 of them to hold it still while 1 undid..)

If i were you, before you start anything check that you can crack off the bottom pulley nut (or get someone else to do it for you). After that it should be fairly easy. (its a 41mm iirc)

Also, make sure that you double check all the timing marks before you put the cover back on over the belt!. Just for peace of mind!

Reply to
Tom Woods

Twas Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:06:01 +0100 when Tom Woods put finger to keyboard producing:

Do I need any pullers for that job? or is it all unbolting stuff?

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

Twas Tue, 19 Oct 2004 18:49:32 GMT when "R L Driver" put finger to keyboard producing:

My new best friend that eezibleed :o) I'll have a Dayco belt then without worry.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

On or around Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:06:01 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

The one on the 300 TDi cost me a new (stronger) swivel-handle for the big go-away socket (27mm on the TDi)...

place socket securely and fully on nut. Turn engine 'til bar is about 1" above chassis rail. check socket still firmly on.

turn engine on starter. handle hits chassis with almighty clang, and in the case of the first one, flies in the air in 2 pieces.

The first attempt broke the old (less strong) handle. The second attempt loosened the bolt. Note that lining it up with the handle already in contact with the chassis didn't work... hence the 1" off, which gives it a shock load.

it might be that the TD one ain't so tight, of course.

Later, I attempted to tighten it to the manufacturer's specs: tighten to something like 60 ft-lb, then angle tighten 180 degrees. I think I got about 120 degrees before it wasn;t possible to move it any further with the newly purchased long (about 30") handle.

god knows how you get it tightened as much as they suggest. I reckon it'd take a 3/4" drive socket and about a 4-ft long handle.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.