Top end rebuild?

You'll need a tool called a valve-spring compressor. It compresses the valve-spring and lets you release the parts that connect the valve-stem to the spring. Also a gadget that is little more than a sucker on a stick, and valve-grinding paste.

Unless the valve seats are badly eroded this doesn't need anything special. Engine tune-ups, such as race-heads, can involve quite a bit of careful machining of the shape of the seat and the valve. It would still get the final fit, to match the valve to the seat, done with grinding the valve against the seat.

I have the compressor and I am familiar with the sucker tool. I'm guessing from your post that after the valve springs are taking off I attach the sucker to the back of the valve. put some paste on the other end. Then spin it in the seat? I'm new to valve grinding.

Thanks.

oops...found a website detailing such.

Yes, that's it. It needs very little paste, and you should keep giving the valve a lift and turn. Start with the coarse paste, get an even ring of bright metal on the valve and seat, and then finish with fine paste (usually comes in a little double-ended tin). Don't get the paste on the valve stem, and clean off thoroughly.

I think the process is more generally called lapping.

On or around Wed, 19 Nov 2003 21:39:23 GMT, "Jack Kerouac" enlightened us thusly:

new timing chain and followers (lifters) definitely. You may find worn pushrods, you may find worn rocker shafts. Did these things in stages on mine, put a new cam/followers in initially, later did the cam drive while doing the crank oil seals, then still later the rocker shafts and pushrods. I've not actually done the cam bearings at all. the new cam seemed to fit reasonably well in the old bearings.

Where are you sourcing parts? your prices look a little on the high side. prices from a recent Real Steel advert ("export orders welcome") which include UK VAT at 17.5% (your VAT may vary):

Camshafts std from 55.17 lifters (set) from 49.76 std timing chain set 23.50 cam bearings (finished) V8 18.73 rocker shafts each 14.75 pushrods HD set 25 engine gasket set V8 from 50.14 intake manifold gasket set 16.39 head gasket from 6.56

Catalogue 3.40.

Real Steel, unit 9, Tomo Industrial Estate, Packet Boat Lane, Cowley, Middlesex, UB8 2JP

+44 1895 440505 from abroad...

no connection, just a satisfied customer. They seem to know their stuff on V8s.

I'm in the middle of changing the cylinder head gaskets on a 3.5 1989 Range Rover having put a new cam in about 18 months ago - I wish I had done the whole lot in one go back then as it is a real pain in the arse to have to strip the top off the engine again. I used a 3.9 cam and found that it fits where the 3.5 cam went - the bolt on the end was different so it may be worth checking that out when you order one- I did notice a distinct improvement in performance but, as pointed out by somebody on here (Badger??) you'd notice an improvement by fitting a 3.5 cam too as the old one is knackered. The 3.9 cam will not blow up the 3.5 engine so you do not have to worry on that point. I left cam bearings in situ - no signs of wear and replacing them looked like mega hard work. Otherwise I fitted new tappets, rods, rocker arms, rocker shafts, timing chain, gears etc etc - the whole lot came to about £250 UKP from Brookwells who are local to me so I could collect - however Real Steel were very close in price to Brookwells.

The current cylinder head job has boged down due to me being unable to shift the actual head bolts with the tools to hand - I've now got hold of a wall socket and impact wrench so this Saturday should hear lots of swearing. The job is not too tricky but it does take a few hours of whittling away to get all the gubbins off the top of the engine before you can get to the cylinder head (the sodding manifold lock tabs are fun).

I'd recommend a copy of the V8 Overhaul Manual - available from any Landrover Dealer for $$$$$$$$ or here for No Roubles:

Well worth reading the bit about installing the new rocker shafts to ensure that you get the oilways positioned correctly - whoever did the last ones on my car (and the service history suggests main dealer) fitted the rockers the wrong way around on the shafts and the amount of wear on the shafts was quite incredible.

Graeme

Thanks for the heads up.

On or around Fri, 21 Nov 2003 02:18:01 GMT, "Jack Kerouac" enlightened us thusly:

lot of wear on mine, which were the right way round, and were almost certainly original.