V8 Engine Oil andOil Filter Renew

trying to get a bit complicated ....... get the enginenice and hot then drain the oil , unscrew the filter leave it all to drain whilst you have a cup of tea/ coffee. bang a new filter on , new copper washer on the plug, do it up and then refill. Check the oil after running as the level will drop slightly. steve the grease

Manual says dont change oil and filter at the same time as the oil pump is up/down wind of the filter and its a no no. Changing both at the same time drains the pump of oil.

Alot of people have mentioned this and the Land Rover offical manuals also detail it. I dont want to f*ck it up!

Tim

If it's a post-serpentine then ok, but if it's a pre-serpentine (3.5 or 3.9, with the exception of the disco 3.9 serp. with dizzy) then............... NO NO NO! If you do that you will wait for oil pressure to build, while the bearings destroy themselves as you restart!!! DO NOT drain the oil and remove the filter at the same time on a pre-serpentine V8, the pump is not self-priming!!! Yes, I know a lot of people have done it this way and been ok, BUT is it really worth the risk? None of my own V8's have ever self primed and I've owned a few, trust me! Correct method for pre-serpentine V8:-

1. get it hot.
2. drain the oil.
3. refill sump, check level.
4. start, as soon as light goes out, switch off.
5. fill new filter to 3/4 full (to allow for angle as you fit it).
6. unscrew and remove old filter, immediately fit new one.
7. start, check light goes out, let idle for a minute or two, switch off, check levels.
8. go have tea/coffee/stella/vodka, safe in the knowledge that you haven't knackered your bearing shells!

Don't worry about mixing a very small ammount of old with new, there's about a pint trapped in all the gallerys etc that mixes every time anyway. Another good reason for regular changes, in my book. Remember also that the pre-serpentine v8 is designed to pump a heavy oil in volume and even though pressure will be maintained with a thinner oil the flow to the rear crank and cam bearings will be reduced. The engine is designed to be lubricated with a 20W50 multigrade oil, not a modern thin oil.

Badger B.H.Engineering, Rover V8 engie specialists.

On or around Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:17:49 GMT, "Someone" enlightened us thusly:

what I do is this:

warm up engine.

undo sump plug, drain oil, anneal washer (or replace it, if you do that) while it drains, replace sump plug, refill oil to about half-way between low and high on the dipstick.

Fill new filter with new oil about 10 times (it gradually soaks through, and thus the first time you fill it to the top it's only about 1/3 full), ending up with it as full as reasonably possible, bearing in mind that it goes on at an angle, so too fill will spill oil on you. This will generally get some oil onto the rubber seal, but if by some miracle it hasn't put some there.

place new filter to hand. Unscrew and remove old filter, grab new one, screw on and tighten (about 3/4 turn from when the seal contacts the face).

start engine, verify that oil light goes out/you have pressure on the dial.

stop engine again, wait a few minutes, check level and add oil 'til it's at the high mark on the stick.

I've not had one go wrong using that sequence. The main risk of problems is by removing the filter, draining the sump and leaving it all open, AIUI. By doing it a stage at a time, you avoid that.

If it *does* go wrong, it's a pain. you need a 12-point 8mm ring spanner and a good deal of swearing, an oil pump gasket, and a tub of vaseline. remove pump cover, squidge vaseline in around the pump gears, filling as much space as possible (clean the mating surface of old gasket if it's stuck to it first) and refit pump cover. I guess if you want to cover all bets, you get the new pump gasket in stock first...

Thanks for the confirmation Badger. Printed and saved.

Would 6x be a reasonable alternative during step 8 or should I be looking for something alittle thinner???? Maybe an IPA??? Or a Best????

Also on the suggestion on the 20w50. I believe I have got a fully pathetic in there at the moment and I was toying with mobile 1 as a replacement. Obviously not worth it (read shouldnt do it)

Cheers (and thanks again)

Tim

Again thats for the confirmation Austin.

Hopefully sort it this next weekend.

Thanks!

Tim

On or around Sat, 22 Jan 2005 20:35:26 GMT, "Tim Guy" enlightened us thusly:

well, I reckon yer wasting yer money. The critical bit really is the "50" part, which is the hot viscosity - modern oil such as 10W40 is thinner when hot. Some fully synth is very wide range, such as 0W60, but that's silly money and well over-spec.

good 20W50 is not that common now, mind. I've been using castrol GTX "for high mileage engines" in the disco V8, here, seems OK at the normal 6K mile intervals, but it does run almost all the time on LPG, which seems to result in cleaner oil.

Just changed the oil in the TDi, 6k miles and black as yer hat.