V8 Fuel Injection - Holley Style

You know how it is when there are bits of your car so technical that only a main dealer can investigate ? I don't like that. Some bloke you
don't trust sticks in a computer and says you need a new ECU and BANG - big dollars.
That is mainly why I decided to convert my 1988 carb V8 110 to fuel injection - I wanted to understand all the bits. Now if you tune the engine you need to be able to adjust the system, so I wanted a programmable fuel injection. So I bought a 4-barrel manifold and a Holley Commander 950 fuel injection system to bolt on in place of the carb. This went in a few years ago, and I like it ! I swapped the normal soft engine for a Vitesse-ish spec 3.5, and its been sweet for 20,000 miles. Heavy hauling, playing in snow and scaring the whatsits off hot-hatches that can't leave me behind !!
I wonder if I am the only one to have done this conversion, as I have never got around to the fully mappable ignition part of it, and need advice. I need a crank trigger with 4 magnets. It says it does magnetic, or Hall effect - but I thought both were magnetic ?? Anyone understand this ? I think I'll probably need to make my own trigger assembly, or maybe import one from Summit racing. This spring the top comes off, the cam chain gets replaced and the cam gets checked and dialled-in, and the ignition conversion goes on if I can figure it out.
Glad for any advice, and to share notes with other Holley Fuel Injection Users.
Steve
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Cheshire Steve wrote:

I haven't played with the Holley product but have done a fair bit of this sort of thing (but not on any Rover engines so I can't help with sourcing parts). If you want an easy way to trigger it you can lock out the advance mechanism in the distributor and use it's existing trigger mechanism. This of course doesn't remove inaccuracies due to backlash in the distributor drive, but it's an easy way to get it running.
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EMB wrote:

That crossed my mind, but the manual says it is not advised. It says the pickup/rotor/cap phasing will need to be corrected which will require machining of the distributor (no idea what this is about). Its also says the electrical noise inside the cap may be strong enough to cause tuning problems. My instinct is to keep the delicate electrics away from the HT, and combined with the vagaries of the slop in the cam and dissy drive I have so far resisted (besides I might be able to keep the old system as a backup).
This type of crank trigger with 4 magnets seems a very american way of doing things, as other systems I see in the UK seem to have single missing tooth triggers. I suppose I will have to make a trigger - any idea on how to go about it ? Presumably I need 4 small permanent magnets a chunk of aluminium and some sort of sensor. I did think about getting a universal kit from the states, but we are talking $300 for the MSD kit plus shipping, VAT/import duty etc. Thats a lot of beer money for not a lot of kit !
Steve
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