After much deliberation whether to change the wheels on my 90, i found a tin of black hammerite in the shed.
In a moment of randomness i have painted the old steel modulars black.
They actually look really good, much better than i expected.
My only question is, is hammerite the best stuff to use? Im worried that when they got hot, it will just flake off.
Will get some pics when ive got my camera charged......
Mark Solesbury uttered summat worrerz funny about:
Just don't get any around where the nuts sit, any king of paint here has been known to help the nuts come loose.
Lee D
opps.... I think my laptop keyboard is having a fit.... Looks like CTRL V got stuck!!
|| Mark Solesbury || uttered summat worrerz funny about: ||| After much deliberation whether to change the wheels on my 90, i ||| found a tin of black hammerite in the shed. ||| ||| ||| In a moment of randomness i have painted the old steel modulars ||| black. ||| ||| They actually look really good, much better than i expected. ||| ||| My only question is, is hammerite the best stuff to use? Im worried ||| that when they got hot, it will just flake off. ||| ||| Will get some pics when ive got my camera charged...... || || Just don't get any around where the nuts sit, any king of paint here || has been known to help the nuts come loose. || || Lee D
Yup, paint the wheel by all means, but scrape off the paint under where the nuts go. Movement of the wheel cracks the paint, paint falls out, wheel nuts loose.
My experience of Hammerite is that it sticks forever where you don't want it, and flakes off bigtime where you do. If you've done your prep, it should stick as well as anything else, I suppose. I've never had much luck with it. Nothing looks worse than a crudely Hammerited bumper with rust starting at the edges! The spray cans seem to go on better than the stuff in the tins. Don't forget to overcoat it while it's still soft, OR leave it to cure for 6 weeks before another coat - next day is no good.
I hope that your wheels dont het hot enough to remove hammerite! it is quite heat resistant. I've done engines with it. it can just about cope with heat shields near exhausts too.
It will only flake off if you painted it right over perfect new paint without any prep. if it is over rusty metal or old/scratched paint it will chip but not flake.
The wheels on both my 2A and the 101 are hammerited. I went over the wheels with a wire wheel on the grinder before painting the, and it is lasting fine.
Didn't come loose on the threads that the Army used to paint red on the studs, could never get them off easily after. There used to be a picture on the wall at the HGV Testing Station showing a wagon with a wheel coming off and a caption that said 'Under no circumstances should oil or grease be used on wheel nuts', but there wasn't a telephone number you could ring when you couldn't get them off on the hard shoulder with a puncture. ;-) Properly torqued up it shouldn't make any difference, paint or oil contamination. Without lubrication, friction works against the applied tightening torque so you don't get them tight enough.
Martin
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