1.4 petrol w plate corsa oil change

it is a normal screw on filter, the sump plug is an ordinary 19mm hex so a good spanner or socket will be fine, oil is recommended as 5w30 synthetic, worth getting a sump plug washer too. Local vauxhall dealer will have all the right bits in stock and they are not especially dear either.

Thus spake Mrcheerful ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.co.uk) unto the assembled multitudes:

RTFM?

I recognise that it's a good idea to change the washer, but I have never seen the need to replace the plug itself. It's a big chunky nut with a strong thread and isn't going to wear out in a hurry. I'm pretty certain that my car's manual (W-plate Astra 1.6) doesn't say to replace the plug; only the washer. To be honest I've never replaced the washer either and it's been fine: I just give the plug and washer a good clean after removal and draining the oil, then just put 'em back and tighten to the correct torque setting.

I did not mention replacing the plug itself, some vehicles it is a very good idea to have a spare sump plug, but that model has always been OK afaiac. Washer is worth getting merely to save either having to redo the job or because you drop the washer in the oil.

[...]

If it's the first change on a new-to-you vehicle, it's always worth having a new plug; the last person to fit it might have overtightened it leading to damage on removal.

Some manufacturers use a plug that has the seal built in. These also require replacement of the plug complete if the seal shows any signs of damage.

Chris

Having access to or actually having a new plug available is a good idea if you're not the last to touch it. Some clown might have attacked it with a monkey wrench and rounded it off or overtightened it. At least it's not a "J reg" Cavalier with a 1.7 Izussu diesel. They had alloy sumps. The thread wore out/stripped with 4500 mile oil changes and after 160,000 miles it cost me £90 for a new sump. Dave

snot"

Thus spake Mrcheerful ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.co.uk) unto the assembled multitudes:

You're quite right: I misread your reply. I apologise.

Yes, it's wise to have a spare. I've got away with it so far though.

Thus spake Mrcheerful ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.co.uk) unto the assembled multitudes:

I think I'd find that a bit iffy in case the sump ever grounded on lumpy ground, unless of course the tap is as near flush with the sump surface as the original bolt would have been.

Suitability would depend on the vehicle, by absolute coincidence I just spotted an ad for an English version called 'quickvalve' they have a website, quickvalve.co.uk iirc

Yep:

Projection about 10mm more than a standard plug, or 18mm for the version with a hose stub.

From around 20UKP though; that would buy a lot of replacement sump plugs...

Chris

What got me was the bizarre coincidence: I mention sump valve on here. Several weeks ago my neighbour gave me some car mags to look at, I came across them yesterday and put them down in the front room, this afternoon I flick through one and blow me: the ad for a quickvalve, absolutely weird coincidence, especially as I had only ever seen mentions in US stuff before.

On Tue, 25 Jan 2011 15:40:50 +0000, Mrcheerful boggled us with:

I want one of those. That's fantastic. I don't care if it costs £20. I still want one. The nipple version, so I can pipe straight into something tidy.

Thus spake Mike P ( snipped-for-privacy@nnosspamasmapgmail.com) unto the assembled multitudes:

They do look very useful, but again I'd be a bit concerned in case my sump grounded on bumpy or uneven surfaces, where the protruding valve might be in danger of shearing off and causing total oil loss misery...

[...]

From the link I provided:

"Will my drain valve reduce ground clearance?"

"The valves are about 10mm longer than a standard sump plug. For many engines the oil drain hole is on the side of the sump and so the extra length has no effect on ground clearance. If the sump plug goes in to the bottom surface of the sump pan, the valve will protrude. In many cases even this will not affect ground clearance as suspension, cross-members and aerodynamic spoilers may be lower."

Most modern vehicles will have the exhaust dragged off before the sump grounds.

Chris

...and if the ground clearance was a bit marginal you might end up having to replace the entire sump if the stub caught on anything.

Going back to the OP, if a sump thread fails after 35 uses (160k @

4.5k intervals) then whoever is doing the spannering is extremely incompetent - or the sump was made of monkey metal.

On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 14:00:37 +0000, A.Clews boggled us with:

I'd be more concerned about the ground I'm driving on smashing the sump than ripping a valve out. They look pretty well made, and don't protrude much more than a standard sump plug.

On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 17:52:49 +0000, The Other Mike boggled us with:

You've not worked on many MK1 and MK2 Mondeos then?

Thus spake Chris Whelan ( snipped-for-privacy@prejudicentlworld.com) unto the assembled multitudes:

There's also the admittedly fairly remote possibility of some toerag climbing underneath, opening the valve and draining out all your oil.

Blimey, and I thought parts of Bracknell were a bit rough...

Chris