Corsa Toe In

Corsa C. With 50% full petrol tank and 70kg in both the passenger and driver seat:

Toe In 0° - 0°20' (0-2mm)

Thanks Conor, any idea how much to compensate for unladen?

The checking / adjustement will be done with a home made device which - been using it for a good few years and it works a treat.

Sorry, no. Autodata I have only shows that.

Thx, I'll take a look see.

It's the wifes car (v. low miles) and the front tyres have just been replaced.

The old ones were very slightly scrubbed on the inside. Assuming geometry and everthing else is okay does that suggest excessive or insufficent toe-in?

That suggests that it is insufficient toe in, so lengthen the tie rods very slightly.

Bear in mind that these can be impossible to move on the car on an astra or cavalier set-up. It may be fastest to remove the entire tie rod and work on it on the bench/in a vice.

mrcheerful

Thx, I've got a pit in the garage and plenty of room to swing a spanner.

you don't use a pit for this job!! the inner end of the tie rod is reached from under the bonnet, the awkward, double ended adjuster is under the wheel arch.

the kit you need is usually a good vice, plus-gas, blow torch, stilsons, then grease

mrcheerful

Thx again for the advice, I noted the tie rod position when the tyres were changed.

The pit is the best place to measure the setting using my home made gauge and jack the car to check the road wheels for axial run-out error before making any adjustmen.

My toe is set to within something rediculous like 0.1 of a degree- how do you get that accuracy with a home setup? can you detail the construction of it for me?

In article , group_stuff snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com writes

Does she drive over a lot of speed humps? It might be that, rather than the toe-in.

After poor attempts by tyre fitters using state-of-the-art gizmos, all claiming to be superior than the previous one I decided to have a go myself, and identified a huge tracking error on my wifes previous car.

I'd got 2 steel rods about 4 ft x 3/8" sq, threaded each end, bolted them together (extra holes to suit various car widths) to make a long rod which I bent (90 deg) at both ends to clear the engine. Then bent again so the threaded ends ran parallel to the rods original axis. At one threaded end is a grooved nut, at the other a 1" long threaded nut into which fits a stud.

I place the grooved nut in the roadwheel and adjust the stud to the opposite wheel. Then check the rear (also mark the tyre with chalk and roll the car back 1/2 rev and recheck the previous measurement for radial run-out). Measurement (linear / not degrees) is a simple matter of feeler gauges or count turns of the stud depending on thread pitch and compensated for any radial run-out error.

The main section of the rod is stiffened by a timber batten.

If you want a photo email me. The last bit of my address is .... _stuff_etc

As far as I know the wife doesnt go out humping!

Thankfully, most speed humps have been removed, much to the cost of the taxpayer and local council votes in the subsequent ellection - serves 'em right

LOL, I bet you couldn't get away with asking her if she did.

In article , group_stuff snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com writes

Glad to hear it. :-)

I'm seeing your methods, looks good, simple way and cant go too far wrong if you're careful. Might have a try with some spare rod i have lying around, though im not sure im careful enough to make a decent diagnosis lol.

J

Wish they had round mine. Wouldnt actually mind if they were the correct profile and gently curved up so you dont get a shock load but ours are convex shaped so you hit them part way up the surface and its like driving over 2 inch high steps all the time. And they keep throwing more of the bloody things in.

The council spent thousands putting them in, then thousands removing them following a relentless campaign by locals & motorists.

A few humps exceeded the maximum permissable height. If you want to search the archives to arm yourself for a battle with the authorities it's Derby (Alvaston & Sinfin areas).

I'll look into it. Im fairly sure ours are all within hight limits, and i agree with their being bumps there (roads were used as race tracks, literally) just not profiled so that you hit a step change. Liverpool has some perfect speed bumps that have a slight concave shape to them - if you hit them at or below 25ish they feel like a nice smooth lump. If you hit them above 30 they fire you into the air in quite a startling manner. The ones round us are so harsh that i have to hit them at

Hi, ive been wanting something to track up my car for a while as ive never had much look using Gunsons trackrite.

Now ive built the following and its based on the theory that tracking is a case of ensuring the front wheels line up with the back wheels. Well my haynes manual says Zero Toe in/out on a corsa Sport(2000) is acceptable. Is this pretty much the way or is it more about ensuring the front wheels are parallel to eachother and then checking the align with the rear?

Anyway, this is what I have made using some very straight plastic and the internals of a laserpen. Ive alligned the led up to aim directly down the line using a long spirit level.

By holding the led plate against the front wheel and having someone hold the other against the rear im thinking I can check the toe settings of each front wheel in turn. Ive tried it and it consistently said my wheels were very slightly out.(had car tracked up not long since)

Just wondered if this seems logical, any comments would be great.

Thanks