300w inverter - 12v plug/socket

Jul 22, 2006 14 Replies

I often use a 300w inverter (at full load) and need to some way of being able to quickly set it up and remove it.



The inverter goes in the boot and I generally run a temporary cable straight to the battery - though the cabin, out the passenger's door and under the bonnet. Far from ideal!!!



What I'd like instead is to have some sort of plug/socket arrangement in the boot. I don't want to/can't use cigarette lighter type fittings as (a) they won't supply that much load and (b) they're just simply too flimsy anyway.



What I'm after is a more robust and positive solution - and I want to use something designed for the job (automotive), rather than just botching something together from a mains (or similar) plug/socket.



So, what other designated 12v/automotive plug/socket solutions are there?



I have considered using towbar type fittings and just having the charging/aux type socket in the boot and the matching plug on my inverter. Opinions? Any other suggestions?



Finally - whatever plug/socket used, where's the best place to a get a 20A supply from (2000 petrol vectra)? Is it going to be back to the battery again (but properly installed this time!)



Any thoughts/suggestions on this whole solution welcomed.



TIA



Rupert


Next time you see an AA van, look at the connector at the front that is used for boost-starting. It is similar to ones used for fork-lift batteries, and may be what you want.

Have you an idea what current the inverter draws?

HTH

Chris

Yes, I know the type of things now you mention it. My high-va UPSs have similar (but smaller) connectors to the batteries. But any idea where one can get them (or what they are called)?

Assuming full load of up 300w, I suppose 25A at 12v(?).

Cheers,

Rupert

"Rupert" wrote

Hella socket, or if you want something really meaty, an Anderson plug.... see

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The RC Electric aircraft modellers have some that will do 75A+

Scroll down...

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Make sure you use a wire that can withstand a bit of heat. The silicon covered stuff is quite good. The insulation doesn't melt/shrink easily.

Speakon 2-pole connector by Neutrik. Rated at 20 amps continuous, 40 for one minute. Maplin PM 17 for plug at 1.99 and CC 73 for chassis socket at

2.29 Other component suppliers stock them too. The chassis socket requires a 24mm hole for mounting.

The plug locks into the socket and is one of the strongest most reliable connectors I've ever come across - we use them at work and I've never seen one trashed. Unlike, XLRs, BNCs etc etc. ;-)

If it is actually specified as capable of a 300 watt load, the current draw will be considerably higher than 25 Amps, because no electrical device is

100% efficient. I forget the efficiency of the average inverter, but 75% probably isn't a bad estimate.

I'd look for connectors capable of handling at least 35 Amps if I were you. Anything less will likely have quite a short life if you run the inverter anywhere near flat out.

Dave

Correction- I've found inverters on the web with around 90% efficiency.

My point stands though- 25A connectors will likely be inadequate if you use the device at or near its rated capacity. Try 30A or bigger.

Dave

Seconded, & they're 30A continous now, so should be fine.

The aero stuff tends to be a touch low on power unless you try to charge a big electric heli on a fast charge from the car. I tend to have a bundle of small 12v UPS batteries in a box for that kind of thing. On the odd occasion where I've needed extra, I'll admit to carrying a 3KVA UPS in the boot. Cut the damned bleeping speaker out and you can charge up quite a lot of transmitters and helis at the cost of carrying a 75Kg that needs to recharge on the mains for a few hours.

On the up side, you get more flying time. On the down side, the more time you spend in the air, the more chance you have of an 'upgrade opportunity'. 'Upgrade oppotunities' are accompanied by a sickening thud and a distribution of carbon fibre, plastic and aluminium over a wide area. A model Heli can do an inverted loop and end it with an almost dead stop 6 inches off the ground hovering upside down. Learning to do this can be expensive.

Warwick

I meant use the connectors they use in flight rather than those used for charging. Some competition classes (F5x) are drawing over 100A from their batteries. I have three motors that are rated at more than 2 BHP (=1500W+). The flight connectors are easily able to handle the current the OP is looking for.

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75% efficiency at 300 watts would produce a deal of heat, and I'd guess by the size of these things would need a cooling fan since the heatsink wouldn't be large enough. So empirically I'd say they're rather better than that.

FWIW, the fuse on my 300 watt one is indeed 25 amps. Of course it may not be a genuine 300 watts. ;-)

"Upgrade Opportunity". I can see that being useful in many situations...

This bloke has learned. and then some.

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That is one helluvan upgraded beast already. A Raptor can't do half of

*that* out of the box. Bloody impressive though.

Warwick

Very recent test (yesterday) on an F5B model showed it pulling 289 A (Two hundred and Eighty Nine Amps) ....

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