alternator problem? ford mondeo

First check that the belt is on the alternator.

Some just have spring loaded tensioner pulley, others one of the accessories pivots and some you just have to stretch the belt (guy that does my welding says that's lots of fun - not).

Many FWD cars it's easier to get to the alternator from under the car. Usually have to remove the offside front wheel and a plastic dirt shield. Proper chassis/axle stand required.

First check would be battery condition and state of charge, a 60 plate probably still has the original battery. Once you can get it started you can find if it is charging. As the other poster: check the belt is there, check it is all spinning, bottom pulley sometimes break, alternator will have a one way clutch and I am seeing more and more of those failing, or the alternator may just have died. Reading the codes is very unlikely to help.

Probably fair to suggest that if OP didn't start with a DVM on the battery, it's beyond their DIY capabilities.

I agree with you, BUT, in my experience, other people may have the same query and either the OP or some other person googling for a similar fault, may benefit from a brief run through of basic fault finding for a similar problem.

Oh yes I agree completely. My point really was that thinking about starting with codes was attacking the problem from the wrong end.

Is the battery completely flat? Give it some charge and try again. Does the voltage come up with the engine running? Alternator *probably* OK. If not, check for missing alternator belt, but can you even see that in some modern cars? Or spot it with any certainty given that there may be aircon and power steering belts.

Charge the battery then start the engine. Measure the volts across the battery with a DVM. Should be something like 14 volts if the alternator is working. Around 12v if it's not.

Wouldn't the dash battery light come on if that was the case?

I'd guess the battery - my 2007 Audi behaved similarly, and a new battery fixed it.

That depends on the failure. I had brushes fail and the light not come on with battery voltage becoming sufficiently low for the ECU to stop working.

I should have taken more note when the radio turned itself off!

Some cars let the ecu decide if it is charging and if the light should be on or off eg: 2005 astra: light on and no sign of a charge, so i replaced the alternator, charging as it should, but light still on, battery tested as ok. I asked the owner to drive it and see (lent him my jump pack, just in case) 2 days later he phoned to say the light was now going out just as it should (and he has since returned my jump-pack!!)

The last time I had a battery fail I was driving the night before in winter with lights on and nothing appeared to be wrong - no warning lights etc. The next morning the car failed to start with just a click from the starter motor. The battery also failed to charge using a mains charger. The battery did fail on what was possibly the first VERY cold night after a prolonged mild period of weather.

Many cars have "n" start fault memory. If the fault goes away and doesn't return after "n" starts it is cleared. For some cars "n" can be as high as 50, so could take 25 days to clear (assuming one trip there and back each day).

When you find a mechanic that goes that extra bit to look after you, you are going to make sure he stays on your side.

Just watch out for all his mates coming round for a "lend" of your stuff.

ah, so that is how it works, so I wonder if I had 'cleared codes' on the ecu the light would have gone out? Too late to find out on that one, but I will try it if I ever come up against it again. thanks.

Yes - but in the OP's case, the engine etc stopped working on the move. Which will happen after time with a perfect battery, if the alternator's not charging.