Brake Disk - When to change

change them when they are worn beyond recommended limits or are damaged or distorted. yours are heavily worn and should be changed.

mrcheerful

and

Is there somesort of data source for minimum thicknesses?

Tom Burton

Its often stamped on new disks [:-)] and it's in the Haynes manual:

Zafira front disks: Minimum thickness - hub carrier with integrated caliper bracket - 21mm Minimum thickness - hub carrier without integrated caliper bracket - 22mm

Minimum thickness in this case means once you have reached this thickness, only one more set of new pads should be fitted.

The lip can easily be removed with an angle grinder. Glazing, which may be the cause of squeaking, can be busted with emery cloth [and probably umpteen other ways....], but bad scoring needs skimming, at which stage compare the cost of skimming with price of new disks (generally not worth it IMHO).

Biggles Remove packaging. before e-mailing.

Any chance somebody could look up a min thickness for a 1998 Corsa 1.7D

Many Thanks

Tom

solid disk minimum 9.7 mm

ventilated 21 mm

hth mrcheerful

Cheers... I'll be out with the verniers tomorrow then :-)

Thanks again

You will need spacers then, to miss the raised edge lip.

Digital verniers at aldi and lidl next week at sub 10 pounds, a really useful bargain.

mrcheerful

A micrometer would probably be a lot better!

Vernier's fine for 1/10th mm measurings, it's not like either will have been calibrated.

No, minimum thickness means just that, in other words when the disc has reached minimum thickness, you change it. Don't expect it to last through another set of pads.

If i had one..... But at the end of the day its not like i need to be spot on.

Certainly not!

I chopped up some 5mm flat bar took the burrs off an used them as spacers, THEN read Mr. Cheerful's post *feels pleased with himself*

Well not that any of you car but they are 10.5mm ish with only a bit of pad to go, so me thinks ill be changing them with the pads...

Its not worth getting covered in black crap twice for.....

Now all I need is better impact driver.... Does anyone have any views on silverline stuff? some of it looks a bit naff to me.

Tom

Someone suggested a micrometer, probably because it doesn't need the spacers.

The only really good impact driver is the one that snap on sell which is used with an air hammer, these are incredibly good, they never fail.

The type you hold and hit are all much of a muchness, they are about as good as knowing how to use a good screwdriver properly. If the screw is seriously tight always give it a good whack with a drift first, this jars the head loose and closes the screw recess a little, a good screwdriver will then undo just fine, extra leverage is usually available with a l spanner on the shaft of the screwdriver. So in conclusion, buy good screwdrivers first and an impact driver second. My snap on screwdrivers are still good after

mrcheerful

If you're using air tools there's less need for an impact driver anyway as the air impact wrench will do the job in most cases.

Air impact with a screwdriver bit can/does destroy the heads, the air hammer attachment doesn't, principally because the turning force is hand applied.

mrcheerful