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choppy corsa

hope someone can help I recently acquired a Vauxall/opel corsa with the engine management light constantly on. its a 2000 1.0 12V The symtoms are: WHen cold it starts fine and for the first 2 minutes or so if i dont press the accelerator will tick over (about 850rpm) fine. then it starts to tick over erratically, going from 850 to 1000 and back to 850 and so on. When i go to take off the engine is very lumpy at low revs (like it missing)but accelerates ok.Moving along in slow traffic the ride is very choppy so i have to keep the revs high to get anywhere. Anytime i pull back on the trottle at cruising speed there is a dramatic reduction in power. Then after about 10 minutes or so of driving or when the temp needle reached normal op. temp , it just dies. It will not start again untill it is fully cooled down. Could this be temp related or is it just some fail safe thingy kicking in.

Also, i noticed that when i turn the ignition off, the engine kinda runs on for a fraction of a second before it stops. Is there a connection here.

Does any of this make any sense or will i have a better stab at trying to explain Im a fairly competent (mechanical)Diy'er but these engine electronics do have me baffelled. Thanks for your help

Reply to
Bepo
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Tricky one, but I would hazard a guess that your problem could be two fold. The Un even idle could well be the EGR valve sticking open (which the ECU would call into play at the same point during warm up everytime) Knackered EGR valves are very common on all GM's (and many other makes too!)

The cuttting out when hot is almost definately electrically related- either the ignition trigger- the crank angle sensor is going open circuit when hot (typical failure mode) or the fuel pump relay or main relay has a dry joint which is doing the same.

Basic fault finding tactics apply here- it should be childs play to determine whether you have a lack of spark or fuel when it dies. A can of freeze spray is very handy to see if you can make it re-start at will by cooling any particular component.

The 3cylinder does tend to suffer with underbonnt corrosion to the alloy surfaces, and there are two earth points at the back of the engine by the inlet manifold which quite commonly do cause problems. Check these first.

You don't mention the MIL being lit, I assume it isnt?

A code reading session to see if any are stored would be a good starting point too.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Thanks Tim , im gonna do as you say now. Just one note, what is the MIL you mention. Is this the orange engine light which lights on the dash, if so i called it the Engine management light and it is constantly on

Reply to
Bepo

Indeed- MIL = malfunction indicator light.

In which case, have the codes read, and cleared, roadtest and see which ones come back FIRST.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

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