Escort Spark Plugs

Hi - I've got a 1990 1.3 Escort. In the past 5 years of owning,every time I change the plugs, at least one of them snaps and is really hard to get out.So far I've always managed to get them out. I don't reckon I'm over tightening,been changing plugs in other Escorts for years and no problems. Today I broke 3 and I'm getting angry with them! I've put some copper slip on the new ones but a mate says it's a waste of time as the heat of the engine will burn it off. Any suggestions for next time?

Thanks,

Trev

Reply to
Trevor
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Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

"Trevor" wrote in news:0g5uh.81331$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net:

Because you have the 1.3 engine with the cast iron head, the plugs will be more prone to seizing than in most engines. Copper grease can withstand up to 1100 deg c - it won't burn off! That should help a lot. Other than that

- don't go mad with the tightening! Moderate hand pressure is sufficient to keep the plugs sealed and secure.

Stu

Reply to
Stu

You must be overtightening them. Typically on average, the only need about 12ft/lb of torque which comes under the "nicely nipped up" category. Certainly once it offers some meaningful resistance, you don;t want more than another 1/4 turn.

What does snap sparkplugs though is using a sparkplug socket with the rubber ring missing. The rubber ring, as well as gripping the plug, keeps the socket in line with the plug whilst slackening/tightening.

Reply to
Conor

How tight are you doing these plugs up?!

They are prone to seizure in the pushrod lump, but usually only on the later engines with 20k replacement intervals.

Your 12,000 mile change intervals, with some copper slip (doesnt burn under well over 1000deg c) and just nipped up [1] should be fine.

[1] screw in by hand til they contact head, then 1/4 turn MAX.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Thanks guys - I was given a torque wrench for Christmas for doing up my motorbike's back wheel. It doesn't cover the under 25 Nm range though. Since I've had the car I've changed the plugs 4 times I think,each time snapping at least 1. Never have been able to get more than a couple of turns by hand,had to use the socket with bar. I did put some copper slip on in case my mate was wrong,so hopefully it'll be easier next time. I'll buy another plug socket as well.The rubber is there but maybe it's worn and not gripping enough.

Trev

Reply to
Trevor

If you're relying on the rubber insert to hold the socket straight, it's why you're breaking the plugs. It's only purpose is to hold the plug whilst it's removed or fitted. As long as the socket does that, there is no point in replacing it. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

I think the message about overtightening has been said enough.

But for getting them out, do it with the engine hot. Take it for a good drive to get it nicely warmed up, then take the plugs out with the engine still hot.

Reply to
moray

I take it you are talking about the taper seat plugs in the crossflow engine?. I have changed hundreds of these plugs and never had one break. Start with a hot engine. Use a proper socket (not a wobbly plug spanner) If they feel really tight then get some plusgas soaking in, move them a tiny bit, more plus gas, do up again, then a fraction undo, etc. etc. They will come out, you just need care and time. When the thread and seat are clean (get a tool for this from better car shops), put new plugs in (don't put old dirty rusty ones back in) with a little copaslip on the thread and face, do up till the seat just touches (you should only need finger pressure on the socket for this stage), then tighten no more than one eighth of a turn using a handle. If you know the right torque setting and have a good enough torque wrench then use that, but remember the threads must be clean and lubricated or the torque reading is fairly meaningless.

Mrcheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

The 1.3 HCS / Endura-E donk has this problem. One solution is to remove them every service / oil change to prevent them from rusting in place.

Reply to
DervMan

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