Hub nut removal

Scaffold pole.

Long shot, but...

You know those spray cans you get from Maplin? The ones that just blast air? Turn that upside down and spray onto protruding part of the CV joint for a while (stop spraying when the can gets really cold). Once you're sure it's lovely and cold, heat the actual hub nut itself with a blow torch.

Hopefully you'll have contracted the CV and expanded the nut enough to allow your breaker bar to do it's work.

snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in news:1hp2512.1fkd668pocapiN% snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk:

That's what helped break the breaker bar :-)

In itself, not a lot of use. (c:

Depends where the breaker bar is breaking, doesn't it? A scaffolding pole may just make it easier to break.

Are you easing the pressure on to the nut or applying sudden pressure by smacking with large hammer/jumping on end of bar?

The WD40 for a while then "shock and awe" approach has worked for me on stubborn fixings.

Douglas Payne wrote in news:4sbekqFtag29U2 @mid.individual.net:

I've tried both. Even used an impact wrench. I've sprayed it with plusgas, used a butane torch on the nut. The only thing left seems to be to drill the bloody nut off, if I can.

Opposite thread?

The weak point of the breaker bar is presumably the hinged bit? Got anything without the hinge? Can you swap your broken breaker bar for something sturdier next time you go back to Halfrauds?

Got a dremel? You might be able to cut the nut then chisel it off. Failing that, under cover of darkness, I'd drive it 3 wheeled to a Queensferry and push it into the Forth. (c:

Sure it's not a left hand thread?

================================ Is the edge of the nut peened into the driveshaft? If so have you chiselled or drilled out the peening?

Cic.

Douglas Payne wrote in news:4sbg30Fv922rU1 @mid.individual.net:

The hinge didnt break, the shear has always been on the drive bit, the square bit that goes in the hole it the socket. It is the sturdiest one they do. :-(

No dremel, but the Forth option is sounds good :-)

My thoughts exactly.

Are you still using hairdresser 3/8 or just plain effeminate 1/2inch drive? Invest in a real man's inch drive bar and socket? (c:

Heh, I've come close to doing that with a couple of cars I've owned.

Art wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Not an opposite thread, I tried the nip it up trick, didn't budge and what I can see of the thread looks normal. Also the replacement driveshaft isn't opposite thread.

GO forth unto a real tool shop & buy a 3/4" breaker bar & socket. Or rent a 1" electic impact wrench & socket.

Air impact wrench. Unfortunately often seen in tyre fitters premises.

JB

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk:

Pretty sure. Wouldn't it be cringeworthy if it was though. I damned if I'm rechecking before daylight though. As I replied to someone else, I'm fairly confident it isn't. I did have a look at the HBOL for both petrol and diesel ZX and they don't mention it. Not that that is a cert. ;-)

"JB" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

I am thinking of that, but at the garage I use for MOTs. Ask him to loosen it off. Hell, I might just take the driveshafts up to him and get him to do the lot ;-). Only he scolds me if he reckons the job is a simple one. Last MOT the ZX failed with bad handbrake. He suggested changing the shoes so I asked him to just do it. The reply was "Can ye no dae it yerself?" He did deign to do the front wheel bearing on the 205 though, when I explained I didn't actually own an hydraulic press. :-)

It's fine having them there. Just weld them on 'undo' only.