Long Brake Pedal

Ok thanks will try that at lunchtime & report back.

Ok with the engine turned off I pump the pedal and after 4 or 5 attempts it then becomes very hard. When I apply the pressure with the engine still turned off the pedal does not move, as soon as I start the engine the pedal starts to move downwards slowly and then stops.

Does that mean there is just air in the system?

"gospvg" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

No.

I may have missed something - what car, and how old? Does it have a "traditional" vac servo, or an electric ABS pump?

If it's a servo, then that's what it's meant to do - you've just proved the servo's working...

It's panto season! Oh yes they do!. They're double walled so if the inners leaking the outer bubbles at the point of failure.

"Duncan Wood" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

If the pressure gets between the two walls, they can also balloon inwards and block.

It's a Toyota Picnic MPV

Ok, so I'm worrying about nothing

OK, so the system is not spongy, and the servo is working fine.

If you still feel that the pedal travels too far before the brakes work, the next thing to do, assuming the rear brakes are drum, is to remove the drums and check:

• Lining thickness is within allowable limit

• Drums are not worn to a larger diameter than allowable limit

• Self-adjust is working

To check the final item, find what actuates self-adjust. (You may need to consult a manual or ask here.) Release some of the adjustment, then either operate the handbrake, or press the brake pedal *slightly* (according to type) to see if self-adjust is working.

There's some risk of doing this with the drum off; if you are whatever the foot equivalent of ham-fisted is, you might pop the pistons out of the wheel cylinder. If you are worried about this, put the drum back on first. You should be able to hear distinct clicks as the self adjust operates, and the handbrake should lock the drum up within a few clicks.

A final thought; is this a new car to you? If so, are you sure there is a fault? Can you get someone with experience of the model to drive it? If not, it might be worth asking at a local MOT station for their opinion.

Chris

Ouch I'm good with basic DIY tasks but this read's out of my depth. I think I may involve a specalist.

Nope I've had the car for over 2 years now Has passed both of it's previous MOT's Straight through

At this stage Chris's information has little value IMO. For a start you can't generalise about self adjusting brakes. They don't all work in the same way.

I'd suggest you apply the handbrake. Then check the pedal travel. If it is significantly reduced. the fault lies with the rear brakes, and maybe a visit to your garage, is in order, if you're unsure of being able to sort it yourself. Mike.

Before starting to take the rear brakes apart, it's usually better to establish that they actually are the cause of long pedal travel.

I would suggest this could be done simply by checking the pedal travel with the h/b applied.

To start taking things apart, before making simple checks is not the easiest way to sort out auto problems. Mike.

Yes, you must.

Steve

The handbrake was on in my test at lunchtime.

Going back to your OP, you said "I've replaced the brake pads but I still have a long brake pedal"

Does this mean you had a long pedal before you changed the pads, or you changed the pads and this has induced a long pedal. I assumed you meant the latter, and Therefore what I said earlier still applies. It's a non- problem. If you mean the former, then I apologise for misleading you. In that case, changing the pads was never going to fix a long pedal. Steve

Yes, they would burst. That's what I said. Not give a long pedal. Once the inner has failed, it allows fluid into the outer part which does not have the braiding to support it and is therefore nowhere near as strong as the inner.

Steve

No they don't.

They would burst, or at least leak. That's what I said. Not give a long pedal. Once the inner has failed, it allows fluid into the outer part which does not have the braiding to support it and is therefore nowhere near as strong as the inner.

It is also an exceedingly rare failure mode, since the inner has the support of the braiding, and is also not exposed to the elements and external forces like the outer.

Steve

Have you checked the free travel of the footbrake pedal? Maybe the problem is in that area, rather than with the brakes themselves. You did say the problem was present before you fitted new pads. Mike.

Yes I had the long brake pedal then changed the pads this seemed to work initially for about 2 weeks and now I back to the same long foot pedal issue. I think changing brake pads is probably about my limit on DIY tasks - It might be nothing to worry about but it's bugging me & I'm in two minds about if I should get it checked at a garage or not - especially if they find nothing wrong & I've been worrying over nothing.

they can also balloon without bursting, which gives a long pedal, until one day you brake harder and then it bursts. It is not common nowadays, but in the distant past it I have occasionally seen it, thinking about it though it was on things with no servo and drums all round (like cambridges), so the pressures were probably lower than todays vehicles.

You can still get it on modern cars, I've seen it on a Vauxhaul astra.