Mondeo misfire

Hi - new to this group, so "hello"!

I've just bought the first Ford I've had in years, a R/'99 1.8 Zetec Mondeo with 63k on it and find it has a slight misfire or hesitation around 1,500 to 2,000 revs. It's had new plugs and I've just replaced the plug leads as a precaution but to no improvement.

Googling suggests the coil pack - any views on that, or other likely things to check before I bring it to a dealer after New Year

Regs - Mike

Reply to
Mike Buckley
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Coil pack is a maybe. Pretty generic part, too. Get one from any pre 2001

1.6 -> 2.0 Zetec engine, or even an EFi CVH or Endura-E. Check for a leak in the vacuum hoses round the coil pack area. Alledgedly there is a known issue with a t-piece there becoming brokerenised.
Reply to
Sandy Nuts

That was quick! Thanks. I'll check the hoses. I should also ahve mentioned that it's possibly more pronounced when cold, but it is still there even when it's nice and hot.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Buckley

Checklist-

a) plugs gapped to 1.0mm, proper platinum type. b) Leads clean, grease free, coil pack nice and clean. c) Leads must be OEM Ford, nothing cheaper works.

then tell us, does it have EGR?

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

I used to have an M-reg Mondy 1.8 Zetec. That had a broken pipe/t-piece. Couldn't find it by sight, just found it with my fingers by chance hidden behind the coil pack as I recall. BUT....the symptoms for that were that the engine would try to die at tick over and then kick back into life due to the anti-stall, hence it just oscillated between dying and kicking back in. Fixing the air leak stopped that but was fiddly to do due to access.

My suggestion would be two things, based on what I have read on this newsgroup in previous years...

  1. If the ht leads are not genuine Ford parts then they may not be reliable. I recall readers changing their new non-Ford leads for genuine leads and curing the misfire problem.
  2. Also, is the engine oil the correct oil for the engine and in good nick? Again I recall that the valves are engine oil controlled and the wrong oil or knackered oil can affect valve lift. Hotter oil would be runnier and hence may give better lift when hot.

I don't have professional car knowledge like some folks on here but maybe the above will give you food for thought. Good luck.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

P.S R reg is 97/98.

Reply to
Sandy Nuts

Duh - -

It's a "T" - - - can't type either it seems!

Reply to
Mike Buckley

Put a match to it.

Dr. Bizarro

Reply to
Dr. Bizarro

(Sandy as pointed out I got the reg letter wrong - it IS a 99 on a T plate)

Plugs supposedly new as I asked for plugs / filter / oil on purchase, but not had chance to check that they are actually new (! - do I trust anyone, no!) let alone correct.

Leads are new as of yesterday, but not Ford - Champion "silicone". Coil pack seems nice and clean.

EGR - ah yes! Don't know if it has EGR - where to look please and what am I looking for??

Also - is it worth checking / cleaning throttle pot? And if so, where please?

I need to get a Haynes or similar for this car of course - in my Landy days I had the proper manuals, and also had lots of online resources for it as well as a rather nice L plated Audi 80 which followed it. Are there any decent on-line manuals or similar which anyone can recommend? I'm gradulally finding some stuff via Google of course.

Have a grand New Year - - Mike

Reply to
Mike Buckley

In message , Mike Buckley writes

In that case it won't have the aforementioned "rubber T piece" that often splits. The design was changed on engines built after 05/98.

You need to check what make they are.

If the champion leads are anything like their plugs then they will be crap. Don't be fooled by a big name. As Tim said, genuine Ford/Motorcraft leads are best. Having said that, they shouldn't give any problems in the short term.

I don't think you have one.

Most misfires on these engines are plug/lead/coilpack related. Having said that, my 2.0 Mondeo has always had a slight hesitation at a steady

2k rpm and the ignition components are spot on. Many other owners report the same. I don't spend a lot of time at a steady 2k rpm so I just live with it.
Reply to
Paul Giverin

Should have stuck with Audi I guess. Never, ever had troubles with them. Amazed that modern Fords should have "misfires".

Apprecaite all the help - I'll throw a little money at a coil pack, have it checked properly and if that doesnt cure it accept that it's a Ford! And nowts changed in 20 years.

(Mind you - I did have a few Vauxhalls - and they WERE dreadful things.)

Cheers folks - Mike.

Reply to
Mike Buckley

In message , Mike Buckley writes

There is nothing wrong with modern Fords. 20 years ago you wouldn't expect your coil to last 70-100k miles and if you feel its unreasonable to have to replace a coilpack on any car after 6 or 7 years then perhaps your expectations are too high.

Reply to
Paul Giverin

Actually I remember most of my coils lasting longer than that. Now modern Audi coils are a different matter :-)

Reply to
Duncan Wood

Fair point.

Hm - so I hear - most of mine have been diesels in fairness, with the exception of that rather nice 80.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Buckley

Quick update, in case it helps anyone else - a dose of injector cleaner seems to have helped quite a lot. Much better in fact. It's going for a cam-belt change at the end of the week, and I've asked my garage to check the coil pack while it's in - I'll post any worthwhile news.

I have to say it's (overall - for age & what I paid for it) an impressive car - rather nicer to drive (better seats & driving position) than the A4 in fact.

Mike

Reply to
MikeB

Plugs! Sweet as a nut now.

Reply to
MikeB

Hmm - only for a day or so. Pulled the coil pack - #4 turned out to have a badly burnt internal "post" and the side of the pack was cracked. One new coil later and all is well.

Mike.

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Reply to
MikeB

Hi there

I found this site using google as my M plate 94 Mondeo 1.8i wa misfiring quite badly - accelerate and nothing there at all in al gears - after a mile or so it picked up and seemed fine. This onl happened for the first few minutes of each journey but having the ca fixed I now realise the performance was being impacted all the time ( only bought the card a month ago). Here's what was done, in order, t rectify the problem :

Fitted new spark plugs and HT leads - still the same Fitted new Temperature Sender Unit - still the same Fitted new Lambda sensor - still the same Fitted new MAF sensor - BINGO - car runs like a dream. Performance i fantastic !!

Looking at another reference guide here then I suppose a general dow on power was the real issue rather than the bad misfir

-- thebaron

Reply to
thebaron

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