Oil leaks.

The old Rover is leaking a lot of oil. Crankcase is pressurized beyond what the breather system can handle. It's done a lot of miles so just assumed worn rings, and was intending doing a full overhaul. But money is tight, so that will have to wait a while.

Someone said they'd had the same with head gasket problems. But it still runs as well as ever. If it were a head gasket, I could afford to change them.

Any tests to show definitively if it is a gasket problem or just worn rings? I did do a cranking compression test some time ago which was normal. As you'd expect if it runs well.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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A leak down test will help. Pressurise each cylinder (valves closed and crank locked), and see whether any cylinder is leaking more rapidly than the others, if it is significant you can hear whether it is leaking into the crankcase. Head gasket will generally manifest with overheat/water loss and may be detected with a gas test of the air above the coolant, using a 'block test' kit (both are cheap from ebay, you need compressed air for the leak down test)

Reply to
MrCheerful

If you don't have the 2nd pressure gauge and restrictor to make a leak down tester then just pressurizing each cylinder in turn to about 100psi and looking for bubbles or rise in the coolant tank level with pressure cap off will show a gasket leak.

Reply to
Peter Hill

and you may hear ring leakage by listening at the oil cap.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Looked on Ebay for leak down testers, and didn't realise how cheap they were.

How much air do you need? In other words, does it need a full sized compressor?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

a small one would be fine

Reply to
MrCheerful

Good - that's all I have. Been Googling on using one and looks like it might well identify the problem. Have ordered one from Ebay.

Just a question - doesn't the air pressure tend to push the piston down? Or do you have to set that piston at its TDC?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

You do need to lock the crank with the valves closed, so a bit after tdc, then the rings will be back in the most worn area of the bore.

Reply to
MrCheerful

That doesn't sound a trivial thing to do.

Reply to
Fredxx

Ah - bit more of a problem with an auto. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Not having yet got the device and therefore instructions, it could be it doesn't actually need much pressure. Plenty friction in a V8 ;-)

Found a U-tube video of one being used. Looks like it may be the answer to finding problems like this without major dismantling. Seems you can often hear where the air is escaping from.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

not necessarily, a hammer handle in the alternator belt at the bottom pulley should do, or even a spanner on the bottom pulley, as long as you don't let it get a run up then either would do. if it has one, then you could drop off the lower part of the 'adaptor plate' to expose the ring gear.

and before anyone says take the starter out, it isn't easy !

Reply to
MrCheerful

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