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Plastic repairs

I've got a couple of bits for my MK2 Golf that could do with fixing - an arch spat with a crack in it near the bottom (£46 plus the dreaded!?!), and a couple of sill covers with bits and bobs of broken fixings and the like (they're one of these lovely setups with loads of clips).

How can I effect lasting repairs on these things? Cosmetics aren't really a problem as all the repairs would be on the rear side of the items or mainly out of sight. I know plastic welding can be done, but would I need a filler rod, or can I just melt what's there back together? Or are there any really good glues I could use?

Reply to
Doki
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FWIW they're marked as PP/EPDM I think.

Reply to
Doki

Before you buy any expensive "specially formulated for the job" stuff (which I did and it was s**te), try a cheapo hot melt glue gun. Worked a treat on my bike fairing.

Reply to
Ratchet

In the past I've had good success using a soldering iron to melt both sides of a crack back into each other. It can be a little on the messy side if you're not careful though.

Reply to
Andy Tucker

Hot air guns (with a small nozzle & a temperature controlled gun) are easier.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

There's a cheap one coming into Lidl soon with nozzles and the like. The correct temperature for the plastic I have is 300 degrees, the Lidl machine claims to do 30, 400 or 600 degrees according to their catalogue. Might be possible to mangle it to do 300 or get by with 400...

Reply to
Doki

The problem with the cheap ones is that the temperature shoots up when you fit a reduction nozzle, the dewalt ones not bad for fussier than paint stripping jobs.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

I've just given it a go with an old black and decker paint stripper and a home made reduction nozzle, and I've managed to weld a rear arch moulding quite successfully. It's not quite an invisible repair at close quarters, but as it'll be 10 inches off the floor when it's fitted, I'm happy.

Reply to
Doki

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