Problems changing Oil filter

Finger tight is more than enough.

Chain removal tools tend to cut through a tight filter. A strap type is better - it spreads the load.

Hammer a screwdriver through it and use the handle to unscrew it...

Thanks to everyone who replied and said more or less the same thing. I did try hammering a screwdriver through and twisting, but it STILL won't budge, and the screwdriver does start ripping through the metal. Tried all the other tips like tapping it with a hammer, tightening before untightening etc. I'm getting quite pissed off with it now. I'll try again later with a chisel or a couple of screwdrivers but after that I'll give the problem to a mobile mechanic or something, because I need the car soon. GRRR!

What I usually do is this

Make sure the engine block etc where the oil filter fits is spotlessly clean

Smear oil around the rubber seal on the filter ie on the mating surface

Make sure the filter casing and my hands are clear of oil

Screw the filter on BY HAND - grasp the end of the filter and twist it on as it tightens up. One hand only, and if you feel a train in the wrist - stop turning (NB I don't have particularly strong wrists!)

fill with oil

Spin engine over on starter till it fires - then switch off!

Do this a couple of times until the oil light goes out instantly (usually 2 or 3 attempts). I uses to remove the plugs and spin the engine over on the starter to get the oil circulating.

Warm the engine up and let it run on the drive for a few minutes.

Switch off and then make sure there are no leaks, just try and give the filter a bit of a turn by hand to make sure it has not come loose.

recheck a few miles later (I have failed to tighten up a filter once - and only once! - using this method, but caught it a week later before it started to leak)

It would on a Micra - no bloody room!

Agreed - its lighter to use and more "Manouvrable", especially in tight spaces where the thickness of a chain can cause problems.

: > I'd hammer a foot long screwdriver straight throught the bastard and : > twist. Never fails.

: It would on a Micra - no bloody room!

What's yer angle grinder for?

Ian

Got it going in the end with a big chisel and a hammer. Thanks all

Whilst im here could someone explain what the oil filter does ?

How often do they need changing.

I'm trying to learn as much as possible with engine basics so I can learn to service my own car so that I can save a few quid on servicing it myself.

so far I think I understand that a mini service involved, doing the spark plugs, changing the oil (bit confused abou all the different types of oil there are and which I need?) checking all my liquid levels (brake, pas, windscreen resevoir,), lubrications on the doors and boot. also to make sure I put the distributor connectors back on in the right order so it doesnt misfire.

*check wiper blades. *car lights (and all electrics) *tyre tread and if there inflated properly.

Things likes brakes I will have done professionally, dont quite think I'm skilled enough to do them yet, but once I get confident with the basics I'll check them up in hayes manual. One tip I've been given is when putting new brakes shoes? blocks? in is to smaer a little copper grease on them to avoid sqeaking.

Have I covered everything or am I missing something ?

I'm just getting into all of this and am I guess a novice but not affraid to get my hands dirty and put the time into my car. No point buying one and not looking after it.

Any advice would be most welcomed.

Cheers

The one I use has a flat 1" steel band, but it need to be specific to the diameter of filter. No problem if you only use it for your own car.

I've just done my first change on my current car (changed it recently becuase a mummy on the school run reversed into my old car very hard and wrote it off despite me being in it with the horn blaring and the headlights flashing).

I couldn't move the filter either and it was awkward near the bottom of the engine at the front. I took the car to my local garage who I had just paid lots of money to do the front suspension and asked them nicely if they would put the car on their ramp and loosen the oil filter. They were only too happy to oblige. They had a tool a bit like a cery large pair of pliers with curved pincers that fitted nicely around the filter.

Of course you can't do this if you've already put a screwdriver through it as you can't drive the car then. I'd only bent it with a strap wrench. I never had used the strap wrench successfully - a rubber gloved hand works better for me.

Tony

Punching a screwdriver through the filter isn't a very clever way of removing it, because if you still can't get it off (a) you can't drive the car/bike once the filter is damaged and (b) a damaged filter is way more difficult to remove than an undamaged one.

Use the proper tool for the job, which is either a chain, strap or an oil filter socket ... + put more effort into it. Sometimes they are difficult, but persevere...

When installing the new filter (a) ensure the old seal has been removed from the block (b) smear the new filter with a thin film of the new oil and (c) hand-tighten, do not over do it (filters have a manufacturers torque setting too)

Good luck.

"mocha" wrote in

It filters impurities, mostly metal swarf, and prevents it getting into bearings etc, where it would cause rapid wear.

Depends on the car, but I do mine every 6 months which is probably over-cautious as I only cover around 2500 miles between changes.

Excellent. I do the same, and save a fortune on garage prices, which are a bare minimum of £30 per hour.

If you haven't got the service guide, then buy a Haynes manual.

also to make sure

Mark them by writing the plug number (1,2,3,4) on some masking tape and sticking it round the HT lead.

I don't bother and I haven't got squeaky brakes.

Practice makes perfect

Is there is a tool to tell you when you've tightened it far enough? I have a nastry habbit of over tightening things :-s

"mocha" wrote

No. Just spin it on until it makes firm contact, then tighten it by about one-eighth of a turn. Check it isn't leaking when you start up, and check it again after a few miles of running.

I've got a plastic type with a rubber strap - came from a DIY store. Assuming there's room, it will shift pretty tight things. Also useful for removing tops from new pickle jars...

The message from "mocha" contains these words:

Er - it filters the oil!

Oil picks up all sorts of crud as it travels round the engine - some of it's sooty lumps, some tarry gunge, some of it metal particles. These would all be harmful if they were pumped into bearings, so the oil is filtered beforehand. Filters should include a bypass valve so that if they become clogged they can take themselves out of circuit - unfiltered oil is better than no oil. There should also be a non return valve to stop the filter emptying itself when the engine's off. The reduces the time the engine is running before the oil pressure comes fully up.

They should be changed at each oil change.

It also gets oil everywhere...