Re: Focus rear brakes

Oh for god sake don't do that, you'll surely have almost instant total brake failure. In a moment Conor, Adrian et al will be along teling you to buy new discs :-)

All I've got to solve is winding the caliper

Not familiar with the Focus mechanism, but If it's like Audi then you'll find a hex in the centre of the piston that an Allen key fits into (you may have to shorten the Allen key if the piston is pretty much fully out) - just wind away carefully (make sure the dust seal is free so you don't rip the rubber and simultaneously lever the piston back in with a large screwey.

Julian.

"Julian" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

Depends if that's taken 'em below the minimum thickness.

In message , Paul Giverin writes

Just as well I don't do my own maintenance these days... Next you'll tell me there's no need to adjust the 'points' gap in the distributor . ;-)

In message , Harry Bloomfield writes

When I were a lad you could manage most jobs on a car with ordinary hand tools. :-) In my 20's I stripped an old Enfield motor cycle engine and replaced the main and big-end bearings and top end stuff with the help of a friend, and we lined up the flywheel with a 90° set square. Other tools used were a sledgehammer for disassembly and an electric drill. It got me around Somerset and Dorset and during RAF service at Locking, and back home to Manchester eventually...

The rear caliper 'piston' on the Rover P6 of the '60s had to be wound back in so it's hardly a new thing. ;-)

You obviously struggle with the words ''almost unworn'' and ''light skim.'' Practicality not being one of you stronger points....

Julian.

Nor to dismantle and clean the plugs, or oil the dynamo bush and best of all there is no need to replace the carbide in your lights on modern vehicles.

Again, it depends if it takes them under the minimum thickness. Depends how deep the rust has penetrated.

The thing is though, that with the price of new discs being so low then unless you've got the equipment to skim them yourself, the cost can outweigh new replacements.

I didn't mess with the bush, but I changed the carbon brushes now and again and cleaned the commutator slots out with a broken hacksaw blade. (Or was that the vacuum cleaner motor)?

My Uncle Bert had an acetylene bicycle lamp which was brighter thaqn some modern bike lights.

"Julian" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

If they're so "almost unworn", why did they require a skim - and how much has been removed by that skim?

If they're not below minimum thickness, then why on earth do you think I'd suggest replacing 'em?

All I've got to solve is winding the caliper

Not sure if you know this but the Haynes book says you need to undo the bleed nipple and clamp the hoses when you do this. I don't know if any one else bothers ? It's to avoid the possibility of dirty fluid contaminating the ABS. I used a G clamp on the front ones, not had to touch the rears yet :) BTW new pads and disks cost about tuppence from Ebay for a Focus.

Simon

It is always good practise to let the old fluid from the caliper out and top up with fresh, especially if you are ignoring the correct servicing schedule (change fluid every three years)

I just got a new toy for that job: an air operated piston presser and turner thingy, a joy to use compared with the old wind up one I had before. about

Ah, I'd looked at those but can'y quite justify one:-(

Yes, you can, look into my eyes, not around the eyes: You need some more toys.

Most people (those of us without access to a lathe and the skill to use it) would. It's perfectly acceptable to skim discs provided the thickness is OK, but it's not cost effective for me, given how cheap discs are from the likes of GSF.

To be honest I just can't be arsed, once it's not flat enough to need machining then the amount left after you've skimmed it seems a pointless economy compared with a new one. Turning the lip off the brake drums was worth it for the hassle factor though.