Repairing rust on a panel.

Apr 13, 2011 53 Replies

I've got some. I suspected it was the same as body lead. I've also got some non multicore leaded solder wire - for end feed fittings. If that is the same stuff, it would be easier to use.

I'm pretty good at soldering - unlike welding. I've wiped a few joints in lead pipe in my time. ;-)

Not all boilers installed are condensing units

The boilers i have had fitted run a dam site hotter than the older boilers

One of the reasons we have pressurised systems now is to prevent boil off causing air to enter the system , causing cavitation and rust within the pumps

Plumbers metal is not the same a lead solder , frys flux is good stuff

Jaguar cars used to be lead filled years ago , as long as the base metal wasnt perforated

[snip]

formatting link
Also known as bodylead

And guess what? They are right.

Yes.... Saying some stuff that is true after something that is wrong doesn't make the first thing right.

The Dremel method may work on minor pinholing if it can get far enough into the metal, the bare metal would then benefit a coating of Phosphoric acid to burn clean any remaining rust.

I hate water based paints, but it doesn't sound as if your metal is actually too badly corroded, although the repair has to be perfect if its black paint obviously.

Stephen.

Most new ones have to be by law.

You're talking rubbish.

The usual way for air to enter an open system was by pumping over.

Pressurising a domestic system has nothing to do with raising the boiling point - unlike as in cars.

I'm pretty confident I've ground out all the rust. I've examined it both sides with a magnifying glass under a strong light. But I will use rust killer on it anyway.

The roof I'm working on is a secondhand one in original SD1 paint - metallic blue.

I'm actually quite impressed with the respray. Looks as good now as when done. Seems to be resisting stone chipping well too.

[...]

Strictly speaking, there is no law that specifies any type of boiler. There is a requirement that boilers are in either class A or B of an arbitrary efficiency rating scheme, and at the time the regulations were framed, only condensing boilers met those efficiency ratings.

As condensing boilers are more complex, and hence more expensive, whilst usually having a life of around half that of simpler systems, there was no incentive on manufacturers to improve the efficiency of simpler ones.

Because installers either don't understand, or more probably don't care about the implications, most systems are so badly designed and commissioned that they don't operate in condensing mode for much of their life anyway.

Overall, there is compelling evidence both from an environmental POV, and from the TCO to the end user, that condensing boilers are not a good idea.

Chris

Indeed. Which is why I qualified it with 'most'.

In theory, there was always a need to improve efficiency - since this is reflected in gas bills. Rather like MPG on a car. But in theory at least you have to go to some method of condensing to recover the waste heat that would otherwise go out the flue.

If steve is an example of an installer, you have your answer. ;-)

That many of them are poorly designed and built has nothing to do with the principle. There are long lasting well designed ones on the market - but you'll have to pay for them.

[...]

Indeed; that just supports my statement that the total cost of ownership is likely to be higher with a condensing boiler compared to older technology ones.

Chris

Possibly - but with gas prices on the up it makes sense to use a boiler with as high an efficiency as possible. The dilemma is more about replacing an otherwise good older boiler. If starting from scratch or replacing a faulty one the figures are much easier to calculate.

My actual gas usage dropped by 20% when I changed to a condenser from a RS cast iron type - and only the boiler was changed, as I already had reasonably sophisticated controls.

The operative word is most not all not 90% not 70%

No im talking boilers and the new condensers run hotter although the return is often cooler thats how they condense

Of course it does , it allows for a hotter flow /cooler return / larger return temp differential causing condensation

One of the biggest mistakes is over rating the boiler , most houses could be adequatly heated by a 60 or 80 btu unit most installations seem to be 100 plus btu units

I think possibly one of the problems is the low hot water flow rate from the smaller boilers compared with the larger units

I dont install boilers commercially however one of the business i am invloved with does

Thats the same with any form of heating appliance you get what you pay for .

The fact that many are poorly designed and built has everything to do with the princible .

It really is pointless spending more on a condensing boiler unit if its so poorly designed that it rarely runs in condensing mode .

Many installers are clueless when it comes to installing central heating systems , they just buy a pack from the likes of plumbers world , plumb centre. etc which come with x lenths of 12mm copper pipe/ roll of plastic pipe 7 radiators up to x capacity , cheap thermostatic valves so forth and so on

A correctly installed system needs to be worked from the ground up

Thats the point though most of the cheap and cheerful installations have very limited scope and its amazing how often the engineers dont calibrate the boiler prior to completion infact some of the cheaper boilers cant be calibrated

Just check for leaks collect the cash and go

Ok - so name a non condensing boiler which satisfies regs on efficiency. Just about the only time you're allowed to replace an older boiler with a new non condensing type is where it is impracticable to do so. The usual case being back boilers. But I believe there is now a condensing replacement for those too.

See 'The Other Mike's' post. It's spot on.

Some ancient cheap and nasty installations controlled the hot water temperature by the boiler temp. But those will all have rusted away if run at low temperatures. And should have been updated control wise 40 years ago.

It would only allow for a hotter flow if you're at boiling point. Which would be plain ridiculous. A sealed system is basically just easier and cheaper to install.

Just when last did you look at a boiler spec?

Do you know the difference between a condensing and combi boiler?

About 24 hours ago combination system (included ground heating system and solar panal recovery with redundant back up from a several non condensing boiler units run from propane / mains gas (clients not to sure yet which they require).

System was multi zoned controlled by a computer system that monitored both air and ground temperatures and the heat from the sun

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required