Rover 214SEi Heater Controls

repair or replace the fan speed resistor unit

Thanks for that, will check it out.......... Can you advise where in the car this unit is located? Does Haynes show how to do the job?

Thanks again Paul

Simplest would be to put up with it.

Errrrrrrrrrr I don't really want to do that, or I wouldn't have posted would I?

Thanks for yer help. Paul

That'll be the bit you twirl.

Dunno, you may have been subconciously checking whether it's acceptable not to bother to fix it or whether such inaction would throw doubt upon your ability to cope with the complexities of modern life. While many posters are willing to answer all questions at face value, some of us take the trouble to delve deeper to help resolve those underlying anxieties that never quite make it to the surface. This isn't really about heater controls at all, is it?

Yer welcome.

You have too much time on your hands (student maybe? bangor.ac.uk address)

This is a car maintenance forum. I want to do some maintenance on my car, ie fix my heater controls.

That's all. It doens't matter whether my engine has blown up or my heater doesn't work. It's car maintenance...end of.

Thanks, Paul

It was funny though. :-)

I don't know it it helps but on the bubble version it's behind the glove box and easily swapped out.

My other tip concerns the water control valve which is worth a protective smear of grease at every service.

Andy

FWIW I wouldn't bother either. I've had several of these go (or be already gone at time of purchase) on older cars and they've all been such a disassemble-half-the-dash bastard to get to that I've never bothered. Also, lowest fan speeds are for nonces. ;-)

In *theory* you ought to be connect the fan switch output for position 1 to the output for position 2 through a suitable value resistor (value = difference between the now-dead speed-1 resistor and the speed-2 resistor). You'd have to watch what power rating you needed and how you heatsunk it though.

I'll remember that the next time you wire a fan in reverse and your seen with your head stuck to the dash. :o)

PDH

Take off the glovebox (2 screws just inside the lid), this wil reveal the blower housing. There is a panel with a 3-wire connector going into the top of the housing, undo the 2 screws and pull it out. There are 3 coils of resistance wire on the back of the panel, usually one or more of these has corroded away or burnt out. If it isn't this it's probably the switch and yer on yer own with that one...

The coils are all best replaced with high power resistors - 0.47 ohm, 5 watt or greater, you can get them from Maplin, RS etc.

I've had 2 Rover 200 series do this now, the Rover price for a new pack is about =A345 but the fix above is a piece of piss if you know how to solder. There was a tutorial about on the Web a while ago explaining in more detail, have a google for it.

HTH

Hey, I'm not the one trying to fix a trivial fault on a throw-away car.

Nope.

Now that's the kind of answer I'm looking for - thanks very much!

Cheers Paul

Rover 214SEi - beauty is in the eye of the beholder - not a throwaway car to me - nice looking car, nice interior, nice alloys. Mine is mint and 40k on the clock.

Not going to get into arguements about how trivial a fault is, it's car maintenance which is what this forum is about, doesn't matter how "trivial" you think it may be FFS.

Paul, Wakefield