Rover 416 won't start

Hi all I have a 1996 416 rover which is a good runner but now it will not start on the starter motor. It will bump start OK and runs fine. The battery is less than 4 months old I have put on a different starter and have a good earth onto to the body. What else should I look at ?

Mike Cole

Reply to
Mike
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I'd check that the battry has enough charge, if it doent then look at the altinator.

dan

Reply to
Dan Gibbs

You;ll have to have a look and tell us if it wont start during cranking from lack of fire or lack of fuel.

I would say the ignitor (ignition amp integral with distrubutor) but would want to check for no spark first before blaming this.

Tim.

Reply to
Tim..

You need to tell us what happens when you turn the key.

Nothing? A single click? A whirring sound? Something else?

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

click. the starter motor does not spin. Mike Cole

Reply to
Mike

Is the battery charged?

Reply to
mrcheerful

Yes mike Cole

Reply to
Mike

How do you know? Have you tested it? try swapping your battery to another car and see if it will start that.

/if there is a sharp click from the starter and the battery is good then there is probably a broken wire or connector to the big connector on the starter (if the starter complete is known to be good) try jumping the main power lead from battery plus to the big connector on the starter using half of a set of jump leads, then try to start.

Most likely first fault is battery/state of charge though.

It is amazing how often I have been asked to fix a car that is difficult to start and the battery has been the problem, and how often I have been told that the battery is definitely alright!! There was one just before Christmas, classic knackered battery symptoms, OK when used every day but leave it a few days and it won't go. I fitted a new battery and checked the charging, when they came to collect it they said emphatically that it couldn't be the battery, they couldn't actually say why it wasn't, but they were sure !!!

Mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

I know what you mean.

Looking at the basic starting circuit there is a control relay (MEMS) whic provides a feed from the battery to the starting solenoid via the 80 amp battery fuse and 40 amp engine management fuse. The MEMS relay is triggered via the key and fuse F20 (10amp). Looking at the diagram the heavy duty cable from the battery is live at all times, the solenoid in the starter motor pulls over an internal switch to turn the starter.

Fuse F20 is in a satellite fusebox. The other two are in the engine fusebox. There is also a 40 amp ing switch fuse in the same box.

While changing the battery I would also check the condition of the leads down from the battery to the starter. I have had fatigue failures on the o ring crimps, a clean break and slight separation to break continuity. They look ok but when you pull on the lead they come away in your hands. Same for the engine earths, as everything goes the same way.

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

"mrcheerful ." wrote in news:bIxmh.24506$ snipped-for-privacy@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk:

LOL....brings back memories from a couple of years ago when I learnt the true value of getting a proper battery test done.

My brother had an old Polo which developed a starter motor problem overnight which, surprisingly enough, was symptomatic of a flat battery. Charged it - still dead. Swapped with my caravan battery - still dead. Recharged that - still dead. Swapped *starter - still dead. After some wiring checks and further head scratching, I eventually reached the simple and correct conclusion that I had two duff batteries, which I then promptly rectified with a nice new one. Lesson learned.

  • Fortunately, I was able to return & refund the starter, so no financial loss was incurred as a result of my incompetence.

Stu

Reply to
Stu

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