1990 240SX Won't Start

You say that the battery voltage is fine, but how and where are you measuring it?

Are you measuring it under cranking load? Are you measuring it at the battery posts, or further downstream towards the starter motor?

Are the battery cables tightly attached to clean battery posts? If there's a bad connection between battery and starter, then the voltage at the battery will not be dropping realistically while cranking.

If you're measuring resting (unloaded) battery voltage, this gives you very little information about the condition of the battery.

Does the starter crank the engine? If so, is it cranking more slowly than would be expected from a good battery?

John

John Henderson wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

could be a bad ground wire somewhere,too.

Sorry for the confusion...I should have been clearer. The engine doesn't crank at all. I tested the voltage at the battery posts as well as the connection on the starter. I also tested the voltage at the connector for the solenoid. I did clean both posts and replaced the positive clamp as the old one did have a break in it. All lights, power, accessories do power on. Thanks again for the assistance

"Larry" wrote in news:lwEXi.1481$m44.477@trnddc06:

maybe your have a bad clutch lockout switch,that prevents cranking when the clutch is not pressed in. you should be able to measure 12V at the solenoid terminal when you try to crank the motor. you should be able to jumper 12V to that terminal and crank your motor.

If you have 12V at the solenoid terminal and the starter still does not crank,then there's a solenoid/starter problem. Maybe a bad ground side wire.

Is there a way to safely bypass or jumper the safety switch (clutch lockout switch) to test it?

Or even a faulty ignition switch or wiring, in the "start" position, not applying enough current to the solenoid.

That's a good test.

I don't know what the voltage should be between the starter motor body and the battery earth terminal while trying to crank the engine, but I'd be suspicious about a bad earth connection if it was more than about 2 volts.

Larry mentioned that the starter had been tested, but we don't know how thoroughly. I wonder if the brushes are worn.

John

on 11/4/2007 4:55 PM Larry said the following:

Could be a worn ignition switch. Put the key in the switch. Pull it back counterclockwise hard towards you. Now, sneak up on the start position slowly. If it works, get a new ignition switch, or just start the car the same way all the time.

I just replaced the rubber stopper on my 200sx clutch (130k miles). You should be able to get your head on the floor and look up at the clutch pedal assembly with a flashlight. The rubber stopper presses on the small tab/button of the clutch switch. If it's missing you'll see a metal circle (where the stopper goes in) move to the switch as you depress the pedal. (The switch is fixed/does not move). In a pinch, press the clutch switch button while someone starts the car (Must be in neutral, or severe injury can result!)

However, if you have 12 volts to your starter when you try to start, it sounds like a bad starter assembly

"Gary" wrote in news:kbNXi.14276$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr14.news.prodigy.net:

I had the same thing happen on the brake lights on my 94 Integra;the plastic button crumbled from age and nothing was pressing on the brake switch,so the brake lights stayed on all the time. I had looked under there and didn't notice anything was missing.I thought I had to have the switch replaced,but the dealer put in a new button and "only charged me" $60. (that switch was a bear to replace...that's why I took it to a dealer.)

It's probably too late for this poor guy, but maybe this will help the next person. Be sure to check the clutch safety switch. On my '89, the button that pressed the clutch safety switch broke recently. So, pressing the clutch didn't engage the switch anymore. Without the switch being depressed, the starter won't turn.