S70 Tools

Been studying a few repair procedures for the S70. One thing I've noticed is that there are a number of Torx fixings, so I'll be getting a decent set of bits. I also noticed that the hub carriers have bolts that require a torx socket (i.e. Exx). Does anyone know if there are other fixings that require torx shape sockets or are these a one off. I don't want to buy a full set if it isn't necessary, as they seem rather more expensive than the male bits.

After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my first major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all gasping now), there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.

1) I have the time. Don't need the car for commuting because I can walk to work in under 20 minutes. I do this anyway, except when the weather is exceptionally bad. SWMBO has her little car, so life without mine for a couple of weeks won't be at all hard.

2) I have access to the facilities. I work in the engineering department of a large industrial plant. On the site we have a large garage used for maintenance of forklifts. I intend to put the car in there for a week or two and do the work in my own time. No post lift, it will be a jack & support job, but level ground, plenty of space and a roof overhead. I can borrow all the general purpose tools I need (big sockets etc).

3) Help is at hand. I have a number of colleagues who can help out with two man operations (removing gearbox etc) and general items that I may get stuck on. I myself, IMHO, am quite practically minded. I've studied the procedure and know what I'm getting into, or at least I feel that I understand it well enough to be able to take the job on. Admittedly, I'd never even done an oil change until five years ago, and the biggest part I've changed to date is a wishbone. But there's a first time for everything, as they say ;-)

As usual, any constructive advice is much appreciated. OK, you can shoot me down in flames, now ;-)

Reply to
Stu
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Why?

Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?

Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a spanner monkey for replacement.

FWIW, I've only ever needed the clutch doing on one of my cars.

Reply to
SteveH

Erm, Steve, I think you need to re-read Stu's post. I think he's quite looking forward to the challenge :-)

Reply to
AstraVanMan

That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs a metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far enough off the ground to work safely.

Reply to
SteveH

LOL now there`s a unit of measurement I won`t forget !

Reply to
Colin Wilson

snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in news:1h22i8f.acbqns1nc2u4gN% snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk:

Main problem is the release bearing. It makes an embarassing groaning noise when pulling away. The action of the clutch could be smoother, too - it's a bit heavy and isn't very progressive (i.e. it's either in or out, no in- between), making smooth gearchanges difficult. I reckon a new clutch would solve all these issues, but there's no immediate rush.

Reply to
Stu

snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in news:1h22ivl.1nbu2271t7wxmfN% snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk:

'Tis true, I do like a challenge :-)

I've no intention of trying to lift it by myself! I thought that two lads would be able to handle it? Please tell me if I'm being vain. I realised about the height and intend to measure the ground clearance before starting to unbolt the box. Is it really not possible without a lift?

Reply to
Stu

It can be done, but I wouldn't. You really want to be able to unbolt everything, support the 'box on a trolley jack and raise the car in a lift.

Reply to
SteveH

Bear in mind also it's a clutch and gearbox in a transverse 5 cyl car designed to handle 250 lb ft or more of torque... If he does decide to DIY it can we all watch?

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

They most certainly can, in fact I can't think of a gearbox that I've been unable to lift on my own in the last 20odd years. However when you're lying on your back or dangling, feet off the ground, in the engine bay it's a different story.

Find out which way the gearbox comes out, up or down, before deciding if you can do it on the drive.

John

Reply to
John Greystrong

They can be a bit grabby... probably quite normal. You sure the groaning isn't driveshaft or rollbar linkages?

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in news:1h22pxz.1txxa52c94x21N% snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk:

What's the weight of a typical road car box, then? If it's gonna be too much, I could always make a bracket to sit it on a trolley jack without toppling off. Guys have posted on here before claiming to have lifted gearboxes back on single-handedly. That's why I thought that two people would manage OK.

Reply to
Stu

John Greystrong wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net:

This would be from below, but space is rather tight. You can't remove it without lowering the engine and subframe by a few inches on the gearbox end! The above bit gives me an idea, though. I could get two of us underneath with a third person taking some weight from above via a length of rope passed around the underside of it.

It does all sound a bit dodgy, though. When the time comes, I think I'll make a bracket that gives a flat base, enabling the gearbox to be supported by a trolley jack. DIY is all well and good, but I don't want to risk injury to my friends or myself!

Reply to
Stu

For an 850 / 70 series clutch you need a 2 post lift and either an engine steady bar (spans suspension turrets and supports engine from above) or an engine jack (supports from below)

The front subframe with suspension / hubs / driveshafts / steeringh rack etc etc etc has to be dropped at least 8 inches to make enough room for the gearbox to slide away from the engine enough to access the clutch without fouling on the chassis legs.

It is a basic nut and bolt job, but needs time, patience and the right supports. There are too many hoses / wires and stuff with minimal slack to rush.

Book time for a dealer is over 5 hrs, so you can double that at least on your own for the first time.

I would very strongly recommend removing the flywheel (possibly giving it a light skim as well) to replace the crank main seal which invariably go to leak, and replacing the clutch slave cylinder whilst you are at it.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

"Tim S Kemp" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@karoo.co.uk:

You can come and give us a lift, if you want ;-)

While I've got your attention, how about my torx sockets query? Is it just the hub bolts that use a female socket or do I need a set of them?

Reply to
Stu

No, this will be the clutch plate graunching on the gearbox input shaft. They are teflon coated, but most manual 850 / 70 series with afew miles on them, groan when pulling away because of this. I have had some success with some HMP grease and or molybdenum disulphate grease used sparinginly on the input shaft but it doesnt last indefinately.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

"Tim S Kemp" wrote in news:Dc6dnTfNn5sR9I7eRVn- snipped-for-privacy@karoo.co.uk:

I know that the grabbiness (is that a word? ;-) can be a characteristic of high powered cars, but I've read quite a few posts on the VOC forums that say the clutch is much lighter and smoother after replacement.

I'm pretty sure about the noise as it only occurs on the bite point of the clutch and you can tell that the part making the noise is a rotating one, IYSWIM. Dump the clutch and the noise goes away quicker or doesn't happen at all. The release bearing rattles at idle but is silent when the clutch is out, so I think the groaning is happening at the point where the load on the bearing is being released. It does vibrate slightly at this point, but I've noticed that the top engine mount is split (only changed last year), so replacing that should sort it.

Reply to
Stu

heh they do that...

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sell polyurethane ones...

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

"Tim.." wrote in news:devr0d$d1m$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com:

I know about the steady bar, I can get one made from box section, with some legs welded on, or hire one from VOC. Is there so much ground clearance required that you have to use a lift?

I don't rush jobs that I haven't done before. Everything is done slowly and methodically.

No problem :-)

I intend to do the seal. My colleague, who has changed clutches by himself before, is less confident of doing the seal successfully than the clutch! Says they can be tricky to get seated properly. Slave cylinder on mine, being an early model, is an external type with a conventional release fork in the bellhousing, so no worries there.

Reply to
Stu

"Tim.." wrote in news:devr4m$dbf$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com:

Ah, right - haven't heard that one yet. As minor as the groaning may be, the release bearing is definitely past it's best. I've stopped worrying that it'll pack up at any time and intend to do the job when I'm ready. This is just a bit of advance planning. It may be well into next year before I actually get round to doing it :-) I take it that you've done the job before,then, having used the high temp. grease?

Reply to
Stu

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