Tightening spindle nut on rear wheel

..and you can;t be sure if it has siezed nor how much it has siezed...

I think the garage are not to blame because I had a friend change the brake shoes some time ago and he struggled endlessly and bashed the brakes around and all that.

The garage had the car on the ramp and the brake drums off when they called me round to see the stripped threads on the nut. I am inclined to think the garage were not pulling a fast one. Not this time anyway!

Yes, it does have a split pin to hold the nut, so I will use your second approach. Thanks.

Whats a spindle nut? Are we talking the hub-nut? And is hte bearing a taper or a cartridge type (adjustable or non-adjustable)? If its non-adjustable just put a 1m long spanner on it and, assuming you're around 14 stone, kneel next to it and torque until your knees come off the floor. Now drive and find a torque wrench. If its adjustable it could be anything, ring a mazda dealer to get specification then get back to us.

how proffesional

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Alex saying something like:

Two grunts and a fart.

Seriously... if you have a decent sized master bar, just stand on it and bounce up and down a bit. How heavy are you?

No problem

Mrcheerful

yes, that should crush the bearings and wreck them completely.

My thoughts exactly. The answer depends on whether you have sealed unit bearings, in which case you want it tight-tight, or a pair of race bearings, in which case you barely want it more than finger tight. RTFHM you tight pikey. :-)

If it's got a catellated nut then don't even think about it.

A) At least i can spell :-) B) And your suggestion was "SENSIBLE TIGHT" - wow, awe inspiring ;-)

Since im not a professional mechanic, and neither is the OP, and this not being a professional discussion forum, where would there be a requirement for a "professional" answer anyway?

The presence of a castellated nut doesn't imply adjustable bearings. Minis had castellated nuts and non-adjustable bearings, and you did up the nuts to a high torque (more like 200Nm than 20Nm). The split pin was "just in case".

I don't think it's too difficult in practice though, you just do it up quite tight first, and if the wheel starts to bind, it's probably the adjustable sort, so back it off a bit and put the split pin in. Otherwise proceed with caution until you're putting your whole weight on the bar.

True, if the OP would tell the model it would be so easy to find out, where would be the fun in that.

In general though, on a REAR wheel the castellated nut means an adjustable bearing.

Mrcheerful

...or whether the wanker that owned it before you had overtightened it...

Did the toyota dealer pay to fix it?

cheers, clive

and compensation for the long term psychological effects?

As the dealer had serviced the car from new she had lost all confidence in it. After resistance, much debate and considerable hassle from me, he reluctantly took it back and reimbursed it's value plus a bit of compensation for both her and the passenger. Needless to say she didn't buy another Toyota. CP

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "mrcheerful ." saying something like:

Not in the original post, afair. It's gone now, but I replied to the original.

He now says it is a staked nut. I have given up, you may be right, who knows?

Mrcheerful