David Hearn (David Hearn ) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
No, that's an easy way to bugger the calibration _right_ up.
A decent extendable wheelbrace is cheap.
Fetch the manager to avoid the embarassement.
To be fair the one in the North of Cambridge always does. BUt then it only recently changed names
You still havent really explained why you did not call the garage as soon as you got home to explain the brake problem and see what they would do about it .....they would have called out and either sorted it there and then or recovered the vehicle to their place . .
As for your comment about your Toyota having "real brakes and not anti-lock" it's nothing to do with anti-lock .Brake circuits are of dual setup,unless your car is very old....I believe the diagonally opposite wheels are on one circuit and the other two on another circuit..both fed by their own fluid so if there is a fault in one pair the others will work ( to a degree) .I might be wrong there ....it could be frontwheels and back wheels but I don't think so .
David Hearn writes
I have always used a cross-bar or spider wrench, simply because they are safer and you can exert a balanced force around the nut. If they slip, the consequences are less likely to remove the skin off your knuckles or rupture you!
Mathew Newton wrote in news:86b066e6-d28f-4c76- snipped-for-privacy@o6g2000hsd.googlegroups.com:
Our local Kwik-fit does the same, Maybe they were stung by an irate customer, or H&S has found it's way in.
these:
t'other way round I'm afraid
No - it's perfectly acceptable with the wrenches I have used. You should only give a steady pull however, and use something else if the nut has not moved at the maximum indicated torque the wrench is designed for. The person who wrote the instructions may have been thinking of someone hitting it with a hammer to loosen a reluctant fitting, or placing a long pipe on the wrench handle to exert a few tons of force.
If it cannot be used at all to loosen a nut, it would imply that it may not be used to tighten a nut that has a lefthand thread.
The only point in using a torque wrench to loosen a nut that I can think of would be to check whether the nut has remained at the correct torque. You can however get a gross over-reading for a couple of reasons, and a nut will in any case not remain at the original torque for long, but I know that it is routinely done for forensic purposes to get a quantified figure instead of relying on the examiner's subjective opinion as to whether the nut or screw was too loose or too tight.
For a very similar reason to why you may want to take your shoes and socks off in order to examine your toenails.
i.e. it is difficult to examine some of the brake parts when there is a sodding big wheel in the way.
The split can be front/back or diagonal , but on most cars it's diagonal.
The seperation in the reservior is pretty low down (usually a a fair bit below the low fluid light gets activated), so the reservoir can quite easily appear empty, but still have enough fluid to operate one of the circuits.
Thanks everyone for all the replies. I think mentioning the wheels is a red-herring. I wanted to look at the brake piping better, but the RAC man just looked from under the rear of the car.
I was just a light hearted comment about my brakes. When you've been to Asia you realise that health and safety of the individual is not taken very seriously, but people get on with work and life, and society moves on.
The brakes failed going down the mountain when I was in India, but the handbrake seemed to work OK, and the driver was experienced enough not to let the speed build up.
They just zip them up with the air-wrench and then go around clicking the torque wrench to make the customers happy.....
Yes. Ever see them alter te setting? ;-)
The place I go to: the final tightening is done by a different person to the tyre fitter, he checks the chart, adjusts the torque wrench, does the nuts up and signs on the docket for your job. You also have to sign that you will recheck the tightness after 250 miles. They also now only fill tyres with nitrogen, all part of the service. Michelin only supplied. Costco.
Mrcheerful
Mrcheerful
Given your condition about it not exceeding the maximum indicated torque that it is designed for, I agree that it shouldn't make any difference whether you're tightening or loosening.
D
these:
I'm a little confused.
So a torque wrench should not be used to tighten a nut, only loosen?
D
The last time I let Kwik Fit loose on a whole car (as opposed to a loose wheel) would be many years ago - probably around 1996/97 knowing the car I took there. They were using torque wrenches on wheel nuts then. I almost had to be picked off the floor with shock, and when asked the mechanic claimed it was to do with their QA accreditation
-probably BS 5750 at the time.
Boy, am I glad I decided this year not to send our Yaris there... Did you send the car elsewhere to repair ? If so, where and where you pleased ? This year we decided NOT to continue with main dealer servicing (out of warranty) and picked a local outfit in Leigh-on-Sea (recommended by someone).
On another note, my company car (Avensis) attended that garage for 3 yrs (90,000 miles) for its servicing. While there is little I can complain about the actual servicing of the car, it really does depend on who you get on the front desk. There is also a girl who works at the service location (approx
800 yrs from the showroom) who is brilliant. 2 years ago, we were due to drive to the South of France in the car and 2 days before leaving, both of my headlights blew and develeoped major condensation problems - this is a known fault on them (apparently) and I was dreading the response from the garage assuming it would take them days to source parts,etc. This girl worked her butt off and got them delivered and fitted the next day -true customer service!!
So, not only do they do the 'comfort click', they've gone to the extent of having a 'comfort click specialist' and additionally fill the tyres with snake oil.
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