Unblocking washer jet

Our Pug 306 (1998) has a blocked washer jet. It has 4 jets from 2 locations (2 jets for each side). 3 of the 4 jets work fine. The other one works fine if you point it right up in the air - if you point it at the windscreen, nothing comes out. It's been like this for a year or so, and that side seems to have problems anyway as the other jet can sometimes block up (it's near side, end of the pipe run).

Peugeot once cleared it with some high pressure jet or something a few years back - but I've had problems doing it myself. I tend to just wiggle the ball jet around until it works.

What do other people do? I guess I could do with something very thin, flexible enough to follow the shape of the tubing/jet, but stiff enough to push through (and not just collapse outside the jet when it hits a corner/blockage).

Thanks

D
Reply to
David Hearn
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Clean the washer bottle & buy a new jet.

Reply to
Duncanwood

it implies that there is crud inside the housing for the jet, usually I would disconnect the washer tubing to the jet and blow it back from the outside , this should remove any crud from the jet, another way is to use a very fine drill in a hand held pinchuck while operating the washer, but it is very difficult for the average joe to buy small enough drills, as we are talking about sub 1mm

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

And the way I've cleared these is to remove the hose from the jet and remove the jet from the panel. Place jet in mug of v.hot water. Leave for a while whilst you remove all the existing windscreen fluid from the container. Once all the existing fluid is gone (Just squirt it as if you were cleaning the windscreen) fill the container with v.hot water. Empty it again using the same technique. (keep repeating if necessary, getting any 'bits' out of the washer bottle)

Return to the mug of water, possibly in your kitchen. Make a cup of tea or coffee, and send everyone into the other room to watch the TV.

Remove the jet from the mug of (now tepid) water. Where the hose goes in, place it to your mouth and SUCK. If you don't achieve clearance you could try freeing it up using a sewing needle (Very fine) or pin. Once it is free, rinse the jet and refit to the car/hose. Drink your tea/coffee. This removes the grotty taste in your mouth.

Refill with windscreen cleaner fluid/water mix and things should be OK.

This technique has always worked for me and often the needle/pin can 'steer' moveable jets to different parts of the windscreen to good effect.

Artie

Reply to
Arturo Ui

Electronics catalogue suppliers sell them, e.g. RS, CPC or even Maplins

Reply to
Duncanwood

The message from David Hearn contains these words:

Trouble with clearing the blockage by blowing it backwards is that eventually it comes forward again.

I often drill the nozzles out to .8mm with a dremelike 'cos I find they're usually a bit stingy with the waterflow anyway. I'd rather drench the screen and fill up the tank a bit more often.

Also check the washer bottle. There's something narsty that lives in 'em and leaves debris which repeatedly clogs everything up. Did a Uno once which had what appeared to be two litres of snot in the tank.

Also helps with my preferred method of losing tailgaters - a long long squirt so that water's pouring off the car onto their screen. After a couple of goes they usually overtake or drop back.

Reply to
Guy King

I know, but the average person doesn't go there and when you say 2 quid for something you can scarcely see, the ordinary person baulks a bit.

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

Actually I baulk a bit as well, reconditioned PCB bits are the skinflints solution

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Reply to
Duncanwood

They're far too easy to break - they're only designed to be used in a pillar drill.

I got a pin drill off E-bay with a dozen assorted tiny twist drills inside the end cap - held in place by a magnet. Only cost a few quid and has been very useful. Nor have I broken any of the drills.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The message from Duncanwood contains these words:

They're rather brittle and to avoid snapping 'em I've found you need either an unnaturalyl steady hand or a press.

Reply to
Guy King

I've not found them any worse than the normal ones, they're all pretty fragile.

Actually the pin drill bits a good point as well, most drill chucks can't cope with sub 1mm bits.

Reply to
Duncanwood

the grunge in the tank can be caused by people using washing up liquid in the water bottle.

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

I use both normal and tungsten for PCB drilling. You can't use tungsten in a hand drill - they *will* break. I've managed to break some in a proper PCB drill press too. I've never managed to break an ordinary one.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Think it's hard water that blocks the jets, though.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The professional PCB drills I've used ran on air/magnetic bearings at 20,000 rpm+ - but any drills in the 1mm or less range are pretty delicate.

Reply to
PC Paul

The one I've got is ancient but good - 10,000 rpm. Normal bearings, though.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

for a pig (seems to be missing)

BTW Dave that battery tester is made by TIF instruments and was distributed by snap - on

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

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