Underseal ?

Just spent =A3240 having the wifes' FTO done and I did my Capri.

Are you in a position to be able to do it yourself?

--=20 Conor

I'm not prejudiced. I hate everyone equally.

I have to say the cars I've had (or still have) that have been professionally Ziebarted from new have been in good condition long after they should have rusted.

I currently have a 71 Mini which shows signs that it was professionally rustproofed whe it was young. Apart from cover sills that have been fitted later, there is no rust in any of the places Minis usually have rust.

If you're planning on keeping the car, yes, get it done. But otherwise you won't get the cost back on selling - few people consider this important now. Another owner in the future will benefit though!

My late 70's Celica was Zebarted, totally solid, other 2 same age, more holes than swiss cheese.

I am considering keeping the car 'forever', so that's why I'm interested. I'm not planning to do the job myself. I'd rather find somebody who knows what they're doing. That is, knows how and where to treat my particular car model, and can cope with the resultant mess on the ground and elsewhere! Any recommendations? TIA Roy

Don't know where you live but we took my wifes' FTO to JR Classics at=20 Askern, near Doncaster. It's a full plastic covers off, all the crap=20 cleaned off rust treated, exhaust and suspension masked up underseal=20 and cavity wax job. Takes them a full working day to do a car. You get=20 a 3 year guarantee and a "12 month touch up" for free then every=20 subsequent 12 month touch up is =A320.

They must be good because they're very busy.

If you're in an owners club they do club discounts. Cost my wife =A3230=20 for her FTO with the OC discount.

--=20 Conor

I'm not prejudiced. I hate everyone equally.

Any bodyshop should be up to the job. It's their job to replace cavity wax in all insurance repairs, so they should have a ready supply of the stuff and be skilled at taking stuff to bits. OTOH bodyshop labour is probably more expensive than garage labour (around about £30 an hour trade rate).

70's cars were rot-boxes...On a modern it's a waste of time, they have decent steel and proper rust proofing to begin with!

should only really be done on a brand new or thoroughly cleaned car. Any loose underseal dirt or dampness makes the job a waste of time....

Jap imports sometimes need doing as domestic market cars have less protection.

No bodyshop will do just an underseal job. They'll do the bits they've=20 repaired but you'll have all hell on trying to find one willing to=20 underseal an entire car as a seperate job purely because it's shitty=20 time consuming task.

--=20 Conor

I'm not prejudiced. I hate everyone equally.

I've a vested interest in this, as I too intend to keep my current car 'forever'.

Regardless of whether you are to rustproof your car yourself or not, you should be aware of some very informative articles. They are landmarks in my pursuit of the current knowledge of car rust protection.

1) the comments on Dinitrol and on Waxoyl. 2) particular the second half, on modern rustproofing materials. 3) especially the testimonials (first paragraph under "Introduction") fromcity/borough councils on rustproofing iron structures other than cars, somewere part-immersed in salt water, no less. 4) to put the cat among the pigeons!

Thanks for your thoughts guys. Will take them into account before I decide. I won't have it done anyway until the spring when the cars have fully dried out and the climate is warmer. Better chance then that all mud will be removed, and the Dinitrol/Waxoyl (or similar) will penetrate further. Thanks again