Wish I could find such a place. I recently had to have a new sill fitted to the SD1 - not that difficult a job as they don't replace it in the same way as the factory fit it. At the top they just cut it all the way along, then cut the new one to match. The bottom is an exposed seam so can be spot welded. I supplied the new sill. Cost 700 quid for labour.
I'm guessing you wanted a decent job done; the OP has said that he doesn't mind if it looks a bit rough.
There are a number of "farmyard" places locally that I wouldn't dream of taking a half-decent car to, but who would do a job at least as good as the best newbie DIY repair.
It would be worth the OP costing it versus the tools and materials needed before committing I would think.
Chris
Thanks. One problem with my car, a Mk6 RS2000, is that there are differences from the standard Mk6 Escort, and not many were made, so parts dealers often don't have it listed. So I've just created a photographic comparison between the two, and it looks to me as though the only difference near the wheel arch is that the RS has wide plastic sills and a different bumper to hide the wider wheels, so I'm reasonably confident that the metalwork is the same.
Their shipping is expensive, but I've managed to find the same part on Ebay, so I'll query them about it.
20 minutes of work with a polywheel convinced me that wasn't adequate:
Is this the one you mean? £38.95 + £6.30 shipping. Looks good so I might well order it tomorrow:
Example please?
And what sort of wheel would be needed?
Probably a bit out of the way for you, but I can recommend a body shop in Hampshire, just off the A32. They do the job properly and charge reasonable prices.
I watched them build a GT 40 a few years back. Excellent job when finished.
In my case oxy-propane. I don't like acetylene and don't need to do welding/brazing very often.
MiG is the most commonly used firm of welding.
I asked because forming a wheel arch like you want to do used to be done by using a length of narrow diameter tube as the edge of the wheel arch, welding in small steel plates to form the shape and fairing in with filler.
You need a sanding disc 60 or 80 grit and a rubber backing pad. using just the grinding wheel is too harsh and digs in, whereas the sanding disk will flex and follow the surface better.
BTW when you use anything on the job place some masking tape over the bar to stop it getting damaged - like you have done now.
I certainly expected a decent job at that price but it wasn't. You can clearly see the join between old and new with a door open. A bit of carefully applied seam sealer would have covered things up.
If I just wanted a sound repair for a few years I'd consider the steel repair panel and get it tacked in place by perhaps a mobile welder or a local place that does MOT repairs. Then fill and paint myself.
Yep, good call. That way you would acquire new skills gradually, rather than having to buy a lot of equipment, and learn to use it, all at once.
Chris
for the OP I reckon the best, cheapest solution is just to knock in the rusty stuff, fill over and spray. It would last out the car, cost the least. and be the quickest at about two hours or less. From what Dave P says I really must increase my prices for welding jobs :)
I believe from the OP's photo's that's a double-skinned area, and the inside looks as rusty as the outside. I don't think it's a viable DIY repair from my own inadequate attempts at this sort of stuff in the past.
It seemed an outrageous amount to me; what would you think you might have charged for a new sill on an SD1?
Chris
A mate in the SD1 club had both changed for 300 quid labour in Dorset.
That was more like what I thought it might be; your location must count against you for that type of work.
Chris
Or simply not knowing the right place.
Well, I've got back the answer to a query that I made about this wheel arch part on Ebay. [ click on enlarge image ]
And got the reply: "Hi they are Metal and you can try and fit it how they like but as far as I'm concerned the old one needs removing and this needs welding on Hope this helps Transport Manager"
It's helpful to know that it's metal -- but I'm confused by the "old one needs removing" bit. I assumed that the above part is, in effect, the part of the rear wing's outer skin that surrounded the wheel arch -- so there is no "old one". Am I not right?
Yes and no. There is no separate part, as that area is all made of two pressings in the factory, (Inner wing, which is shown on the picture you took with the camera on the wheel, and the outer wing, which is what you see looking from the outside), both of which form part of the body structure and are welded together. What he's trying to tell you that the metal round the arch area needs cutting back to sound metal for a good repair.
If he said that it could just be pop riveted over the old one, then covered with filler, (Which is true, but not recommended) and a few years down the line, it failed, then there are, unfortunately, people who would quote him and sue his company for giving out bad advice.
C(over) Y(our) A(ss).
He means you need to cut out the old metal, and either butt weld or joggle and weld the replacement panel in place.
Of course, these are the 'proper' ways to do it.
If you want to 'bodge', then I'd cut out all the rot, cut the panel down to slightly bigger than the area to be repaired, stick it in place with Sikaflex-252, then skim with filler and paint.
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