Boot Installation

Here's how to install the boot:

1. Start with those straps. They loop around the LOWEST of the three arms of the top armature, the one nearest the carpet, NOT the middle one with the "obvious" jog in it. Pulling the straps tight to reach the snaps should be a minor struggle. If they're loose, try twisting them. Some are so long they need an extra wrap around the armature.
2. Snap the front edge down to the deck, then the two Tenax post fasteners at each side.
3. Snap the channels into place, starting at each front corner and finishing with the middle.
4. Finally, work all slack in the channel from the middle around toward the front, so the back edge is tight.

Your shocks are long dead, and you're hitting the bump stops hard. I would not trust Midas. Labor at a decent shop should run around $300, so it's false economy to buy cheap shocks that won't last longer than OEM (~40k miles). Good shocks (KYB AGX, Koni Sport, Bilstein) are $300-450 per set, but will outlast the car. They are worth the money.

It's not a job Midas can handle. I don't care WHAT the job is, Midas can't handle it unless you need a very cheap, short lived, muffler for a 1961 Chevrolet.

Not true. Part of their job is a thorough screwing of the customer, something that they have mastered after many long years of experience.

Few auto-related companies can compete with Midas in that area.....

Pat

#1: forums at miata.net everything you need to know, and more. #2: it's not about the temperature. It's about being "outside" when you're outside.

I've had two experiences with Midas, but not with my Miata. One was a brake job, the other a muffler. No problem with either.

add to that estimate for replacing the shocks another $100 for four new bumpstops. also you will need an alighment after new shocks are installed.

#0: Garage section and FAQ at miata.net

Leon

snip;

This is not true, is it? My understanding is that changing shocks did not disturb the alignment. Am I wrong? I'm not saying it isn't a good time to get an alignment, just that it's not necessary because of the new shocks.

Chris

Theoretically it won't, if the spring perch is in the same place as the old shock's, and you use one of the R&R methods that does not loosen the adjustment cam bolts.