The car has been sitting for a month and the battery died. Recharged = and battery checks out fine. Before sitting ran good and in good tune. = Now hard to start. Let it warm up to full temp in the driveway and = then took on the road. Sputters but runs OK until over 35. Then bucks = like a mule. Acts like trans is slipping, but I doubt that's it. All = fluids OK.
Mechanic says if the battery goes dead on this one, the car has to be = driven for some time over 35mph for it to detect and reset settings. I = was going to do this but it was riding so rough I took it back to the = driveway.
I plan to tow it to the dealer soon to check. Anyone have this happen = before?
Pls reply to alt.autos.mitsubishi or alt.autos on Usenet, or send email = to me.
The car has been sitting for a month and the battery died. Recharged = and battery checks out fine. Before sitting ran good and in good tune. = Now hard to start. Let it warm up to full temp in the driveway and = then took on the road. Sputters but runs OK until over 35. Then bucks = like a mule. Acts like trans is slipping, but I doubt that's it. All = fluids OK.
Mechanic says if the battery goes dead on this one, the car has to be = driven for some time over 35mph for it to detect and reset settings. I = was going to do this but it was riding so rough I took it back to the = driveway.
I plan to tow it to the dealer soon to check. Anyone have this happen = before?
The car has been sitting for a month and the battery died. Recharged = and battery checks out fine. Before sitting ran good and in good tune. = Now hard to start. Let it warm up to full temp in the driveway and = then took on the road. Sputters but runs OK until over 35. Then bucks = like a mule. Acts like trans is slipping, but I doubt that's it. All = fluids OK.
Mechanic says if the battery goes dead on this one, the car has to be = driven for some time over 35mph for it to detect and reset settings. I = was going to do this but it was riding so rough I took it back to the = driveway.
I plan to tow it to the dealer soon to check. Anyone have this happen = before?
Thanks!!
Bob
=3D=3D=3D=3D
Stopped by the Mitsubishi dealer and the service manager was not much = help: "Bring it in...." Feller at the auto parts store said the way to = reset most computer is to disconnect for "exactly 8 minutes" then = reconnect. Will give this a try - can't hurt anything. =20
I'm wondering if anyone reads these newsgroups any more?
I think most are awed bythe graphical forums these days. (or just don't know about newsgroups).
Disclaimer: i know next to nothing about Mitsubishi cars...
If you disconnect the computer for a short while. (It shouldn't be 'exactly' 8 minutes, just enough for it to discharge any residual power in it) it should default to its stock setting which should run the car ok. I'd give it 10 mins.
I assume most computers are similar to my '95 Z28 in that they run open loop until several minutes and the cats are warm etc then they go closed loop and start learning the cars current state and driving habits.
Does the engine warning light come on?. Can you get any MALF 'engine malfunction codes' through it ?That might indicate where the fault is.
I had my Ignition Module die and the car wouldn't rev over about 3500rpm it just ran like a bag of nails above that :-)
Yes, I'm good at digging... LOL!! Checked all the connections first = thing. Last thing today was to hit more 'easy' things. I pulled out the = air intake hose and checked the air filter assy which was fine. = Throttle was moving freely.
Something I missed before was a high pitched chattering near the = throttle when turning the key to "on" (not cranking). I could only pin = point the noise to near the throttle. Had to stop before I could find an = assembly drawing. My uneducated guess is there may be a = solenoid-controlled valve in that area. Cold idle is way too low -- may = be fuel or air related. It's not the starter solenoid.
On the Camaro there is a motor driven valve to adjust idle speed (Idle air bypass) and hold it steady. That would only affect idle condition though not higher ranges.
Bob! I have a 1990 Eclipse also. Same kind of symptoms. Finally died and would not start. My mechanic finally figured out it was the board that controls the computer(?) Apparently the capicitors(?) go bad after awhile. Had to send the board to Montreal to get repaired. No problem since. Google your problem. There was a great website that detailed the problem. Sorry to be so vague, it has been awhile!
Philo
battery checks out fine. Before sitting ran good and in good tune. Now hard to start. Let it warm up to full temp in the driveway and then took on the road. Sputters but runs OK until over 35. Then bucks like a mule. Acts like trans is slipping, but I doubt that's it. All fluids OK.
for some time over 35mph for it to detect and reset settings. I was going to do this but it was riding so rough I took it back to the driveway.
Fortunately for me, the computer was OK (this time) once I reset it. I = got mine running with help of the other great folks in this newsgroup. = Still needs smoothing out the cold idle, but I fixed the main problem by = disconnecting the cables from battery and shorting the leads together, = then turning the ignition switch on. Reconnected the cables and it = started up fine and=20
Exact same thing happened to me with computer about 10 years ago and = sure enough it was a bad capacitor.
Bob
and battery checks out fine. Before sitting ran good and in good tune. = Now hard to start. Let it warm up to full temp in the driveway and = then took on the road. Sputters but runs OK until over 35. Then bucks = like a mule. Acts like trans is slipping, but I doubt that's it. All = fluids OK.
driven for some time over 35mph for it to detect and reset settings. I = was going to do this but it was riding so rough I took it back to the = driveway.
and battery checks out fine. Before sitting ran good and in good tune. = Now hard to start. Let it warm up to full temp in the driveway and = then took on the road. Sputters but runs OK until over 35. Then bucks = like a mule. Acts like trans is slipping, but I doubt that's it. All = fluids OK.
driven for some time over 35mph for it to detect and reset settings. I = was going to do this but it was riding so rough I took it back to the = driveway.
Philo,
Finally some progress after several weekends of checking and minor = fixes...
Just like you said, there were 2 bad capacitors. Good news is = everything else in the car, sensors, wiring, etc, are all fine now. I = figured I would hit all the connections and easy-to-check and fix stuff = first.
Funny thing is, I found a bad cap in 1997 (my notes written on the = inside cover) which fixed a different starting problem. This time the = car had been sitting for several months so I figured it was gummed up or = corroded under the hood, but no.... =20
Took the ECU apart and saw corrosion around 2 capacitors. Scrubbed the = board and other board connections looked OK. Replaced the caps with = same only 105 deg instead of 85 deg. All symptoms gone at engine cold = start. Fine when hot, except when in neutral idle speed cycles between =
1300 & 1500 rpm with about 1/2-second cycle time. This is only when up = to temp.
TS guides say that's likely in the intake air flow -- mass air flow = temp, press or flow sensors, idle speed air sensor, motor, etc.
I'm so jazzed that the main problems are solved that I'm going to call = it a day and go have a LARGE burger AND fries!! Maybe even a Bladder = Buster to drink. LOL!!!
and battery checks out fine. Before sitting ran good and in good tune. = Now hard to start. Let it warm up to full temp in the driveway and = then took on the road. Sputters but runs OK until over 35. Then bucks = like a mule. Acts like trans is slipping, but I doubt that's it. All = fluids OK.
driven for some time over 35mph for it to detect and reset settings. I = was going to do this but it was riding so rough I took it back to the = driveway.
Philo,
Finally some progress after several weekends of checking and minor = fixes...
Just like you said, there were 2 bad capacitors. Good news is = everything else in the car, sensors, wiring, etc, are all fine now. I = figured I would hit all the connections and easy-to-check and fix stuff = first.
Funny thing is, I found a bad cap in 1997 (my notes written on the = inside cover) which fixed a different starting problem. This time the = car had been sitting for several months so I figured it was gummed up or = corroded under the hood, but no.... Easy to spot the 2 bad ones. Not = so easy to replace - had to solder wires on the back side due to = corroded cap connections on the front. Soldering not so bad, but the = case fits fairly tight and had to redo them to give some clearance, and = wrapped with electrical tape. Learning by messing up. LOL!!
Total cost of parts, including solder and wire, $3.50.
Took the ECU apart and saw corrosion around 2 capacitors. Scrubbed the = board and other board connections looked OK. Replaced the caps with = same only 105 deg instead of 85 deg. All symptoms gone at engine cold = start. Fine when hot, except when in neutral idle speed cycles between =
1300 & 1500 rpm with about 1/2-second cycle time. This is only when up = to temp.
TS guides say that's likely in the intake air flow -- mass air flow = temp, press or flow sensors, idle speed air sensor, motor, etc.
I'm so jazzed that the main problems are solved that I'm going to call = it a day and go have a LARGE burger AND fries!! Maybe even a Bladder = Buster to drink. LOL!!!
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