Timing belt replacement

Replacing water pump would be a good idea. Make sure it timings are correct.

Not sure about the 2.4 but the tool for 2.0 is a threaded rod that releases the tension on the tensioner so that the belt can be removed. When putting the belt back on there are two ways to set tension the first is with another special tool that spans the holes in the tensioner roller and you adjust the torque to get the right tension. OR you set the gap in the tensioner - feeler gauge work - this is the way I did it takes a few try's but works great (this also how you check to see if the torque is correct, so why not do it from the git).

As far as the water pump deffrinately replace at 120k but 60k, I think that is your call.

Follow the procedures!!!! When reinstalling the manual says to verify the timing, rotate the belt and verify again - do it, the belt may jump one tooth on the intake...

Just got done with mine, only due to a blown head gasket, due to bad thermostat, which due to the heat broke that little plastic valve off the radiator cap...jeez. You need a big vise to set pin on auto-tensioner, then stick a nail thru the holes. Took mine to a small mechanic shop. I didn't have the special tool to torque tension, just pryed against water pump w/ screwdriver good & hard then tightened center bolt. Then pulled nail out of auto-tensioner with only some resistance. Seems fine to me. Do you have the link to the online service manual?

I didn't change the water pump b/c I also only have 58K, That would be pretty sad for it to be near done already. Also did't change the "B"-T-belt. Yes, 2 t-belts. A little one behind the main one, for the counter-balance shaft. Have to remove the crank sprocket to get to that one. I just chkd for firm tension, not devasting if that one fails (uh,well, knock on wood, if it tangles in the other one)

Tools: racheting box wrenches

Tip for the water pump pully bolts: hold the pully still with one of the belts, pulling it over the motor mount for leverage. Then o/c the motor gets jacked & mount removed. Then I couldn't get pully out past the frame. I bungee'ed it up out of the way so I could work on the t-belt tension.

Good Luck Steve

On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 21:20:51 -0400, "Jim M" wrote:

Actually, its easier to just loosen the pulley bolts while the belts are still tight. They are only M6's after all.

Thanks to those who replied. The link to the online service manual is sure to be a big help for this and other tasks.

Jim M

Is there an online service manual somewhere for a '97 Eclipse GS?

Thanks, DJ

snipped-for-privacy@your.expense wrote: