Thinking of selling the Ka when insurance renewal comes around. And possibly even getting a job (the horror). There's a difference between affording and buying too. I could spend £100 odd on the brakes, or I could swap the pads at £15 a time when they die again. As they don't give me trouble 99% of the time...
Telnet into the POP3 server on port 110 like a real man :). RFC1939 will tell you what you need to know.
Where are you getting leather seats from and what are they setting you back?
Howd'ya do
Don't know yet!! I'm always on the lookout for a car in equally good or slightly better condition than mine, with slightly more things (leather, genuine Audi cruise system), and whilst browsing on AutoTrader I found one last night up somewhere near Manchester (01204 code) - it was maroon, 129k, full service history (never been anywhere but an Audi dealer), recent service, leather interior, cruise, automatic (which I'm almost tempted to go for as I do a lot of town miles and I suspect the economy difference won't be too great in town - correct me if I'm wrong though), but it had been sold (well, bloke had taken a deposit). Then I spent the next hour talking to the guy about Audi TDIs, turns out he's a genuine Audi fanatic (and an experienced Audi mechanic), and basically told me that I'm bloody lucky to have got one like I've got in the condition it's in, and to hang on to it, which I'm quite inclined to agree with.
But anyway, told him my idea one would be the 140bhp model, 6-speed (std on
140bhp anyway), SE spec, quattro, full leather with cruise, and he said that's the one most people are after. That one on Audidiesels that was for £9k went for £8k apparently - he looked at it and said it was ok condition, but not worth spending 8 grand on, so basically mine's as good as I'm realistically likely to get!So I'm on the lookout for a nice leather interior (hopefully from a smashed up quattro - I wonder if they've got leather door trims), and the standard Audi cruise control system, then I'll keep it until I can find a quattro. Though if there's a smashed up quattro, it may be worth turning it upside down and legging it with the drivetrain :-)
Peter
I view at 1280x1204 - I don't think I should have to resize the text in my browser to view any website though :)
Not unusual.
The ECU needs to know "best guess" of the actual speed.
There's some legal wording for the speedometer reading which boils down to the fact that it must not read higher than the actual speed when loaded with minimum load rear, maximum tyre choice fitted at excessive inflation, etc, etc, etc. But it's fine if it reads 10-15% low.
Therefore, the usual technique is the have the ECU measure true speed +/- the error in measurement, and to add on some larger amount before telling the speedo what to read. It's a giveaway when you compared the raw reading with the speedo needle.
Aye. Makes perfect sense, really!
There are a lot of people who believe that their speedometer is accurate, so that when it shows XX mph, they really were doing that speed... Oh and then claim they were "just a few mph over the 30 limit" when flashed at 39....
Alloys and leather look nice, spoilers stuck on small cars tend not to.
Human nature, I guess.
The reality of the numbers is that most speed camera prosecutions really are well over the limit and the driver would have to know they were going too fast when they hit the camera. We're not talking one or two here, but probably 10+ on the clock at least.
Probably not 406 mph though. ;)
Yeah, forgot Marin. their full bouncer bikes are pretty cool.
No you didn't :) You said it right there look ^^^^
" Marin (hardtail and full suspension) "
:)
Works well but looks odd and doesn't half catch the wind compared to 'pushbike' sized rather than 'superbike' sized headlamps. Need a hefty battery too - a 7Ah Yuasa gell cell struggles with a 55W H4 lamp.
On the plus side I haven't had any more kamikaze pedestrians since fitting it, and cars tend to see the big light in the passenger mirror approaching quickly, shift across some then recheck again, thinking it was a car or big motorbike but being surprised when a pushbike rattles past.
Next time it'll get twin smaller lamps mounted in 'hand fairings' or a central HID unit and some 'marker lights' on boingy sticks. Need a non fubar bike to weld them to first though.
Oh yeah, so did.
Anyway. Jon Whyte that designed the Marin full bouncers, used to design F1 cars and components. And he has his own range of bikes, like the Marins, but more expensive that cost upwards of 3k last time I looked.
Think about using Dichoric lamps (arround the 30/55watt type should do). Then pick two different beam angles.
Then you can use say a 15-30watt wide angle for normal riding, then have a 30-55watt tight focus beam set up for distance work when you are down a real pitch black track.
Think about NiMH type batteries too, you can make a nice 12v supply real easy then. Of course things start to get pricier, but it will be a lot more stable, lighter, run for longer.
Yeah, sorry, spotted it after I posted.
I find myself wanting one just because they're that expensive....
Well, you start with one of these
and one of these to sit on
Yeah. I don't know you and I don't care. Thanks for the useless info.
Who were you replying to...?
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