It's in!.

What an utter ballache of a job.

Broke one heater hose, which was annoying, the new clutch didn't fit (but the friction plate did), loads of bits needs swapping or general pissing about with but I now have a Golf GTi Mk2 2.0 and bloody grunty it is too.

Should be fully sorted Monday or Tuesday next week, few silly little jobs to do to make it properly useable.

*Never* piss about with a Mk2 Golf GTi 8v exhaust manifold..
Reply to
Pete M
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"Pete M" wrote in message news:f0b65a$ife$ snipped-for-privacy@registered.motzarella.org...

The spring clips.... ???!

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

"Pete M" wrote in message news:f0b65a$ife$ snipped-for-privacy@registered.motzarella.org...

Worth doing is it? I'm quite tempted to shove an ABF in mine once it's all back in one piece and I'm working rather than studenting.

Reply to
Doki

In news:7NmdnZ2vj snipped-for-privacy@bt.com, Tim.. wittered on forthwith;

Yup, especially when your mate who's helping you with the transplant tries to undo the 19mm bolts that keep the actual manifold together and snaps three of them.

Monday morning I've got to go to the scrappy, get a complete manifold, take my manifold back off (not easy with a 2.0...) and go through the whole spring clip episode once again.

The main issues were caused by me trying to use the poly-v belt setup that came with the AGG lump because I prefer a poly-v to the older belts, doing the swap without removing the gearbox - which is easy enough with the right tools - then discovering lots of little issues I didn't find with the engines in bits on the bench.

If I have to do it again I'll remove the engine and box as a unit, and build up the engine on the bench then install it complete. Getting the exhaust manifold back on with the inlet manifold in place is an utter pig to do with a 2.0 because the block is 20mm taller than the 1.8. and that removes quite a bit of space from around the inlet / exhaust manifold area to work with.

Reply to
Pete M

In news:46294da0$0$21833$ snipped-for-privacy@news.zen.co.uk, Doki wittered on forthwith;

Seems to be, mine's not running right yet, but on the shakedown run round the block the extra torque is very noticeable.

I'm looking forwards to getting it spot on, I have a feeling it should be pretty good. Seems to have lost smoothness at idle but it's ok by about 1000 rpm. Idles spot on 750 rpm though, I have a feeling there may be a lot more compression with the AGG block, PB head combo.

Reply to
Pete M

Nothing to do with me but this looks a good deal,

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what you don't need and you'll practically get what you need for free.

Reply to
Homer

Aye. Looked at that earlier, but I can't really be doing an engine swap now. I've got flatting, polishing and exams all at the same time, then a work placement... And it'd be a sane idea to fit new brakes and suspension before an engine swap ;).

Reply to
Doki

Yeah, grab a set of Corrado G60 brakes if you ever get the chance, they make a huge difference on a Mk2. Even if you don't go down the engine transplant route they're still a worthwhile upgrade.

Reply to
Homer

Got a set of 16V 259mm brakes waiting to be fettled and to go on when I get the time. IIRC G60 brakes (280mm?) are just the 16V brakes with a spacer plate for the caliper? ISTR they won't fit under BBS RAs...

Reply to
Doki

Yes they are 280mm and IIRC they do have the same callipers as the GTI.

Reply to
Depresion

To go from 256mm brakes to the G60's 280mm you'll only need the G60 caliper carriers, I think the VR6 carriers may be the same. My 16V had 239mm brakes so that meant getting the complete G60 upright assembly but from 256mm you should only need the caliper carriers. Not sure about the RAs, some people seem to manage to get them to fit but others don't. There's probably a better chance of them fitting with the 16V calipers and pads as the 16V pads are thinner than the G60 ones.

Reply to
Homer

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