Modding the Brakes. Maybe.

Feb 20, 2009 15 Replies

So to set the scene, I have bought a 1.1 Peugeot 106 for £650 as a winter hack.



Trouble is, I'm actually quite enjoying it. It has a zingy little engine, handles entertainingly, is quite comfortable and is easy to heel-toe. It's a Zest model, so has a rev counter.



It also really makes the MX-5 feel special again, which is excellent because I think I was beginning to get a bit jaded by it.



Anyway. The 106s brakes smoke themselves after a couple of hard slowings down (a problem which does not afflict the MX-5) which I guess is just a good reason not to drive like an idiot. However, they also judder like f*ck so I'm probably going to replace the front pads and discs in the not too distant future.



My question is, should I expect much of an improvement in the fade department from a set of decent pads and standard discs? Is it worth getting grooved discs? Any pad material reccomendations for small french shitboxes?


An upgrade to larger/vented discs and calipers from further up the model range would probably be more beneficial.

Heheh, yeah, brakes from a purrgeot somewhere up the range are bound to be better, but that means mucking about with calipers, flexible hoses, nipples and hygroscopic fluid and stuff.

I would quite possibly need new wheels as the 13"s wouldn't go over much bigger brakes.

Typically, I want the sort of solution I can buy for £20 on the internet. I'm such a bum.

Douglas Payne gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

You would certainly need new wheels - as the smaller petrol engined 106s used three-stud wheels, whilst the performance & diesel 106s and everything bigger used four-stud.

The fondness of chavs for 106s & Paxos means there's a surprising amount of tuning stuff for them - even the cooking-spec 17yo-insurable ones.

Adrian wrote: > Douglas Payne gurgled happily, sounding much like > they were saying: >

I'm not sure what the changeover is, but mine is W reg 1.1 and definately has 4 stud wheels. I have a feeling they all went to 4 stud at some point. AIUI, wheels from just about any 1990s PSA will fit.

One of the possible plans is to have a set of scrap 14s powdercoated in white and drive around pretending its a Rallye.

Some of the stuff is comic. Wish I'd thought of something to sell to people who are 17.

I saw a joke site selling 'Adjustable Powerbands' for 349.99 or somesuch the other day which made me laugh.

Douglas Payne gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

Ah, OK.

McDonalds carpark trying to shag jailbait...?

Ah, yes, that'll be

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Home of the cross-drilled brake pipe.

Heh, do they go for blokes without Clearasil dependencies or burberry?

Hmm. Nevermind.

Anyway, aren't Rallye style wheels are cooler than space shuttle bodykits and ICE installs fit for interstellar communication these days? Have Chavs become more discerning or have I just been one all along?

Aye, but they're different looking to all the other Pug's steelies. I actually thought they were 13s, but giving it a micron of thought, you might be right with 14s :-)

Mintex M1144 pads are the best IMHO - I used them on my rally'd 205 XS probably using the same brake setup as your 106 (Bendix calipers and solid discs) and never had any fade problems (although I also used dot 5.1 fluid). However those pads are £60ish a set plus another £30 for new standard discs (dont bother with drilled/grooved crap).

However a better bet might be looking for a complete upgrade from a higher model. Assuming you have the bendix calipers you can get a vented disc setup for around £40 from an XSi (including some useable discs) and then spend another £15 on decent pads and you've got a decent setup. But you'll probably also need some 14" wheels - some steelies shouldn't set you back too much.

On our old XSi we had the ATE calipers which I believe was off the GTi model. These were slightly better supposedly and I think used slightly bigger discs, and therefore cost a bit more secondhand. The car stopped bloody well.

Personally though, if it's just a winter hack, get some new standard discs and pads on there and stop braking so much ;)

Heh, I know that you know the difference between real Rallye steelies and normal ones, but only car geeks can tell. Chavs are none the wiser.

I dunno about the 106 actually. I'm sure the proper 205 Rallye came with 14s and had different shaped holes punched in 'em.

My 205 had wheels I hammerited white. A number of almost car geeks asked me if they were off a Rallye and I was able to tell them why they couldn't be. (c:

Being 17 was ace.

I've been concentrating on using prediction more and brakes less for a while, and haven't really given the Mondeo a good thrashing for a while. Then when I needed to do a sudden 70-0 stop recently I found the brakes were pap - took about 50% further than I expected to stop.

So I'll be sure to make time to keep the brakes well practised from now on...

And you'd still have brakes from a peugeot.

I was talking pish. They are 3 stud.

Whip a set of discs and calipers of a diesel or an automatic one.

I've spent today fitting a load of bits from a scrap Auto Punto to my mates wife's 1.2 SX Punto. Fitted the engine, power steering, anti-roll bars, wheels, discs, calipers and front shocks from the auto one to hers and now it's a completely transformed little Punto. It is now amusing to drive.

I suspect the Auto one had 'Sporting' brakes and matching ARBs, and I suspect the cam is a lot more torque biased. Now runs out of puff at

5500 rpm but pulls a whole lot better lower down than it ever has before.

Sure you haven't replaced a 1.1 '55' engine with a 1.2 '60' engine?

Only the tech. specs. for the 60 manual and 60 'selecta' [1] are identical.

[1]it's proper bo, I tell thee.

No, it's a 1.2 for 1.2 swap.

The motor from the auto is the sweetest Punto lump I've heard in years. Belonged to my mates 80 year old dad for ever, but the CVT auto box had blown up. I doubt the engine ever been much above 3000 rpm in its life. Really, really sweet engine, no rattles or valvetrain noise. Oil was spotless in it and other than the gearbox being shagged everything mechanical on it was in spot on condition.

Bodily, however, the only straight panel on it was the bonnet.

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