289 or a big block?

It's not that hard, but it will cost you. I did the same thing with myh 68 fastback--took a 289 car and put a 390 in it. If you check my website,

you'll see what I had to do. Basically,change motor mounts, put in shock tower supports, change brackets,suspension, etc. Nothing that's really difficult, of course, but you wantto make a thorough change so that the car will support and handle the weightof the big block properly. For example, I went with the Edelbrock PerformerRPM intake and lightened the front end quite a bit that way. I also movedthe battery to the trunk to offset the heavy nose. The more you can do tolighten the load, the better off you will be in terms of handling.

-------------- Laurie S. Thunder Snake #7

I have a '68 coupe with a 289 2V that I am wrestling with that question, too. What year is yours? My mechanic said that the timing chain is getting bad on mine, and it's got almost 100,000 miles so I believe that the motor is really due for a rebuild. A racing shop in town says that they can put a stroker kit into the 289 and do a performance build for about $3900 giving me around 300 horsepower at the rear wheel. Not bad at all... But for $5900 I can get a 460 with 550 HP and 545 ft/lbs at

Of course, that means that I need to showhorn a C6 transmission in and then swap the rear for a 31-spline 9" so it's going to be really expensive by the time all is said and done. I have also thought about getting a cheap rebuilt motor from here: but again that would mean a C6 and a 9" rear end, so it would not be cheap. This would allow me to at least get a big block in, then I could build the engine in less expensive stages. By the way, Crites has the parts you need at Thomas

It has been suggested in some circles to do a 347 stroker kit with the

289 rather than a total swap. Just a thought.

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

Can you actually do the 347 on a 289? Prewitt Racing here in Austin said that the 289 stroked was 331 (which I'd never heard).

Thomas

question,

That is an acute case of the "might-as-wells," going from an ailing timing chain (a one-day, $100 job) to a 460/C6/31 spline 9". :-)

My idea for a low bux package is to start with a cheapo 302 short block with forged pistons and 9:1 CR, then add a centrifugal blower. I'd use a carb and one of these "hat" things.

This combo would run$4500-5000, and would produce 400 rwhp -- more than enough for a '65Mustang -- without destroying the handling like a big block will do.

180 Out

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

"Spike" wrote

If the 289 is a good solid builder block, I wouldn't turn it into a stroker. Good 289 blocks are impossible to find these days. Most are bored to hell, cracked, or rusted beyond belief. If you want a sleeper motor, then drop in a stroker 351W. Take it out to 427 and it'll still bolt right in. BB displacement from a SB. Or you can run a more economical stroker 351 like I did. 393 stroker- the only part that isn't bone stock is the crankshaft. You use the original 351 rods and use 302 pistons. I saved over $1k by doing it this way.

"Thomas Cameron" wrote

I can see 331, but I don't think there's enough deck to do a 347. I think the assembled height would be too tall (barely).

crankshaft. You

Scott, OE rods and pistons and a $220 steel stroker crank (as referenced on your web site) have definitely got my attention. I wonder if you could price list the whole deal, or at least broken down into major categories like rotating assembly, machine work, etc. Any tips on scoring a junkyard 351?

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

I just checked the Ford Racing engine listing and it lists : Stroker Short Block

2 bolt 302 HD Sportsman Block in either 342 (M6009A342) $2499.95 347 (M6009A347) $2499.95

302 Stroker Kits

fitting 1983-00 302 blocks w/ 1 piece rear seal

-342 CID Standard Bore $724.95

-347 CID .030" Over $1099.95

-Forged 347 CID $1694.95

As for rebuilds

-65-67 289 $2099.95*

-68-74 302 $1799.95*

-69-73 351W $2349.95*

• plus core and freight

Of course, there is the 5.0L Cammer Modular Engine for a paltry $14,449.95.

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wrote

It'd be hard to say EXACTLY what each step cost. First, I haven't recieved the final invoice from the builder, and second, I did more than just the stroker.

Here's the engine specs and other minor details...

351W .060" OB. [Came with the car]

3.85" stroke crank (CHP's 393 crank) [new $220]

D0 heads-ported, polished, roller rockers, new pushrods and valves [rebuilt]

12cc dish cast 302 pistons (compression set at 9.5:1, confirmed by burette on all 8 cyls.) [new $100]

Camshaft& Lifter kit- Comp Cams grind XE262EH [new $325] adv duration in-262 ex-270 (@.050 in-218 ex-224). Valve lift in-.493 ex-.50

Edelbrock Performer intake [came with car]

Edelbrock 650 CFM 4bbl carb (rejetted and metered for altitude in Denver) [new $280]

1" 4-hole spacer [new $20]

Engine balance- $150. You HAVE to balance stroker's. Without the balance, my

351 would have flown apart by now.

For everything including R&R of the motor itself; machining, balancing, honing, notching the block and slight mods to the oil pan, rebuilding the heads. All told it cost me ~$4000.

On actually FINDING a block? Well, check with the local club guys and just start asking around. There's GOTTA be some wierd old guy who hordes blocks (CJ comes to mind). Just kidding TS#1. That's where I found the 302 block currently sitting in my Ranchero. I think I paid $100 for it, then had it rebuilt. That build cost me $3200, installed. That block will end up going in my '66 if I ever get around to it (or never if I sell it [the car] first). You might have a local mass rebuilder who'd be willing to sell you a bare used block that's already been machined. There's a local Co. here in Denver called Ridge Reamer. You walk into their warehouse and it's just crammed full of engines. Complete, incomplete, bare blocks, ready to build, just pulled and needs everything. etc. You walk in and tell'em what you want and they'll get it. They have some pretty rare stuff too. Some fairly decent

428 blocks. Sweet! Maybe you can find someplace like this locally. But I'd still start with the clubs.

Thanks for all the info, Scott. The wheels are definitely turning. Now if I can just convince the wife that 400 rwhp would be a safety feature for a 16 year old driver.

180 Out

As far as I know, you can't fit anything larger than a smallblock in a '65 - '66 without a considerable amount of sheetmetal modification. If you want big block cubes in a smallblock form factor then the 427 stroker is the way to go. Built on a 351W block, it will fit nicely between your shock towers and with 427 cubic inches it should satisfy your need for torque and horsepower. As an added bonus, you won't have to pay the weight penalty that you would with a bigblock. Coast High Performance advertises a kit to do this and many other vendors, I'm sure, offer similar packages.

Richard up in Canada

Replace the front suspension with the Mustang II or Fat Man kit. Look in any Mustang periodical. Cut the shock towers out and put a bad ass big block in there! Pick up a 460 for cheap and build it up, or order it directly from Ford Racing as a crate engine. A toploader, a 9" rear end, traction bars, some wide sticky tires and spiffy wheels, reinforce the frame, headers, an X-pipe, and some Ford truck mufflers. Leave the 289 emblems on and go hunting for some vettes! :-)

Bwah ha ha ha ha ha ha

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I agree 100%, but you wouldn't have a Mustang or the pride of the build!

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16