300 hp...

i would like to get 300 hp out of my mustang without a supercharger and for a low to medium price. i have a 00 gt. what modifications should i make?

p.s., i know very little about mechanics. just being honest! I'm not going to pretend i know something i don't, and any modifications will be done by a shop or myself and my father. my job in the latter being handing him wrenches :-). that's part of the reason i want to do this, too so i'll have a reason to go see my dad every weekend without everyone else being there. you know, quality time.

Reply to
Jonathan h
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Can't get there from here safely or on a constant basis except with a S/C..

260 - 20% = approx 208 rwhp. Boltons ( Chip, CI, MAF, TB, Intake Plenum, Pulleys, better flowing exhaust will get you approx 60 - 80) I'have an '02 5 speed: Chip, CI, TB, Intake, Pulleys, Flowmasters installed, currently dyno'd at 237 rwhp / 277.3 torque. Have 3.73 gears as well but not sure how that works into the equation. I wish we had done an absolute baseline, but the dyno wasn't set-up at the time, we figure base was 210 something, may have actually been a lot lower. We'll be installing an 85mm C&L (or at least trying one) next week. Hoping that will push it into the 250 range. As you can see, little overall gain for a fair amount of Canuckbucks (part/labour approx $2500). And thats not including the suspension work. Headers, hi-flow cats and X pipe and new mufflers will be next on the list. (Hoping this will put into the 275-280 range which will be fine until I get the S/C installed. ($7000 Canuckbucks)

NOS will get you a 100- 150 shot but: A) You really need to do some internal work to beef up the engine B) Its really only good for racing, serves no other useful purpose (illegal on the street here in Ontario) C) Even beefing up the internals, there's no guarantee you won't break something real serious.

S/C although costly will get you close into the 350 - 400 rwhp range on a stock engine without having to do any internal work. Although it wouldn't hurt. A) On tap 100% of the time B) Its all good C) Its all good

Bottom line is, S/C it. Quckest, safest route to more HP. And that is most definitely something you and your dad can do! Plus!! You'll both be wearing shit-eating grins for weeks after first time you dyno it!!

Note, yeah I know there are a some new items out there, but the guys I'm working with don't feel they are reliable, or don't produce the advertised gains. Unless you just want to race it. Then who cares about street-ability.

Reply to
Jafo

Well, I just put down 286/309 SAE with VT Stage 2 cams in a '02 engine with Steeda pullies, C&L elbow, FRPP shorties, UPR X, and Dynomax SS Ultra Flo catback. That's well over 300 hp at the crank. If you're looking for 300 rwhp and money is an issue, you should just get a supercharger. You'll spend plenty more trying to get there NA.

-Keith

Reply to
Keith

Forced induction is no different than nitrous when discussing beefed up internals. A stock motor will handle reasonable amounts of nitrous just fine provided it is properly installed. I'd limit it to 100 hp.

Mike

1995 Eagle Talon TSi
Reply to
Mike

You're dreaming.

Reply to
Scott Williams

Let me clarify. It depends on what you mean by "medium". My ~300hp C8 302 cost me $2500.

Reply to
Scott Williams

No arguement there, I was trying to keep the reply basically straightforward. Yes 100 shot of NOS works ok without internal work, 150+ shot of NOS you can expect major damage if you don't build up the internals.

Yes over-boosting using S/C is just as bad damage-wise as a huge shot of NOS. However moderate boost 6 or 9(intercooled) will give you decent numbers without hurting the engine.

Guy didn't say they wanted to race, and from his original post he was only looking to get to 300hp. I assumed this was for a daily driver, call me stoopid but my impression of NOS is that its a racing application only.

Reply to
Jafo

Duh.. Forget anything I wrote, I just re-read the original post. "300hp ...without a supercharger"

Nevermind.

Reply to
Jafo

Naw, I agree 100%. Worthless on the street and anyone who argues that has seen The Fast and the Furious a time or two too many :-) S/C is the way to go for a primarily street driven car.

Mike

1995 Eagle Talon TSi
Reply to
Mike

Don't be concerned with numbers. The only thing that matters is how the car performs. Gears (3.73s), larger mass-air meter, exhaust (x-pipe), U/D pullies and a timing adjuster is what you need.

Patrick '93 Cobra '83 LTD

Reply to
Patrick

Patrick you seem to be a very well informed person... can you help me understand how a larger mass-air meter actually helps? I'm not saying it doesn't... I'm saying I don't understand how it *does* ;). Thanks, Patrick.

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

FYI Canadians

Guy driving down HWY 400 from cottage, gets rear ended in traffic jam. Nitrous sparks, blows, flips the car over and was completely incinerated. He got out. Lucky? He was deemed 80% at fault for damage. Insurance comapny bailed on him. Goverment run Highway repari had to replace 50 feet of highway surface and billed him. Keep the nitrous off the road!

Tim

Reply to
Tim (Canada)

FYI - The original posted question just said "300hp" not "300rwhp". Maybe he just wants to know how to get 40 extra horses out of his car? I know! :) Trade it in for the new 05 GT that comes with 300hp stock :)

Reply to
Scotter

Mike,

Think of it this way.

Imagine someone pinching down on your drinking straw just a little. If you're in no big hurry to finish your beverage, that slight pinch/restriction will hardly be noticed. However, if the bar just closed and Bubba the bouncer is coming your way to throw your ass out, that slight pinch/restriction may cause you to lose the race of finishing your drink before Bubba kicks your ass.

Cast of characters: Drinking straw = engine's intake tract Drink = air going into your engine You = the engine Pinch/retriction = factory mass-air meter Bar = a green traffic light Bubba the bouncer = Camaro driver Kicking of the ass = seeing tail lights

Hope that helped.

Patrick '93 Cobra '83 LTD

Reply to
Patrick

So a larger mass-air meter will allow more air to get into the engine.... how do you know how much higher to go? What's the stock MAF meter size? and btw... I'm printing off that post.. that's TOOOO FUNNY LOOOOL...

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

Reply to
jimmy nguyen

Why do you need a new starter? Just curious.

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

Not to sound Trollish, but I doubt the Nitrous has anything to do with the explosion unless the Tank ruptured and subsequently caused the gas tank to rupture. Nitrous is actually an inert gas(non flammable). The reason Nitrous is used to boos performance is that when it is mixed with gas, compressed and the gas ignited the Nitrousoxide breaks down into its base elements (Nitrogen and Oxygen) The oxygen feeds the combustion and allows for more fuel to be burnt in a smaller space. The Nitrogen then acts a buffer and helps to absorb the heat generated by the addition of oxygen. If a canister gets ruptured it should just freeze anything next to the spray of Liquid Nitrousoxide and then get the occupants of the car high (good old laughing gas).

-Rob

Reply to
Rob

a canister of nitrous oxide cannot explode. but why is this a reply to my question?

incinerated.

Reply to
Jonathan h

i was thinking more of naturally aspired modifications to get to 300 and i could add a super later if i really wanted to.

Reply to
Jonathan h

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