Two questions, both have likely been answed before as I pop out of my
1) How hard is it to DIY a paint job? I know there is stripping, sanding and
Bondo stuff to take up many hours of my time. Is it better to just get it
all ready for paint and take it in? How hard are metalics?
2) I'm not sure what color to paint ( I don't want to stick with white) what
was the link for all the piant chips for all the mustangs?
I seached google for about 30 min and though why don't I just ask? Thanks
for your your time!
Answer is, it depends. I just had my '69 Sportsroof done. They did an
awesome job. Jut look at the pics here...
While my car was there, a '65 coupe came in that the owner had done as much
as he could and then brought it in for paint. The shop ended up stripping
everything to redo it. A reputable, quality shop will most likely not
guarantee the paint unless they know what they're putting it on. Course you
can always go to Earl Scheib for the paint, but even they will want to scuff
your work just to make sure it'll stick (for a year or so anyways).
I've known some guys that have doen awesome work in their own garages, but
they had lotsa practice. Metallics are harder to shoot because they don't
lay down really smooth, it has a lot to do with the size of the metal flake
in the paint. I saw a 7 series BMW that the owner had painted with bass boat
metal flake color shift lime green crap. The paint guys hated the stuff
since it was so thick they had to shoot it onto the car through a primer
gun. Then they had to lay out a lot of clear to bury it. Too many layers of
clear just accentuate the problems with the metal flake, but it's the only
way to bury it. The car looked like a pimped out POS. It wasn't "smooth" at
all and had tons of orange peel with no way to rub it out correctly.
Pick out any color you like. I suggest a plain nonmetallic/non pearl color
because IMHO they look better on the classics. Cleaner anyways. It is ALWAYS
possible to find the SAME color you like without the metal or pearl. This is
what I did on my '69. I picked out an Audi pearl blue which was really cool,
then I got out the Sikkens color chip book and found the non pearl match.
The car is awesome now! You can make it anything you want. It comes down to
how much want can afford to spend. You can still get quality work for
economy price. My paint only cost $5600 for a complete color change. That
included rust repair on both quarters, floor pan, door bottoms, fender
aprons. That was a double baked base clear with 3 coats of clear (4 on the
hood to bury the stripe). Just look at the pics...glass! Most other places
would probably be in the $9000 range for the same work.
I found a paint guy through a local club, and another through a
classic car dealership.
The one the dealership put me onto turned out to be good enough to
have his work covered in Hot Rod magazine and others. After inspecting
the vehicle (which had a fresh "Scheibe/Miracle/etc" paint job so
brittle you could flake it off), he allowed that if I was willing to
do a lot of the labor myself; remove chrome, gut the interior, etc, he
would drop the price down and have it done in a couple of weeks.
The one the club put me onto, a fellow club member, has a total shop
at the back of his property, offered essentially the same deal only a
Every other shop I tried gave estimates of a year and $6000 and up
unless I fronted the cash up front, and it didn't matter what I was
willing to do. As most openly said, there was no real profit margin
for doing a complete "frame off" type repaint. Their real money came
from insurance work.
As for Erle Scheibe-Miracle-???? types. First they get you in the door
with a cheap offer. Then they tell you that any body work has to be
redone (added cost), and if you want the car mask off it's an added
charge, cleanup of things like overspray onto other parts is extra,
Oh, and that's the cheap paint, so if you want the good paint, it'll
cost you extra. Etc etc etc. I just sold a 66 fastback with an MAACO
paint job. There was white paint on the chrome around the windows, on
the inside of the front tires, etc, and you could just tap the paint
and it would flake..... not scratch or gouge, but actually flake.
In 1977, a friend and I took his car to Earle "I'll paint any car for
only $39.95" Schribe. The final bill totalled over $600. Then he was
going to give a 10% discount. My friend nixed it, brought the car
home, rented a sprayer system and hot lights, used old sheets he got
from the hospital and did the job in his garage for something like
$275. Came out looking pretty darn good, and it was a first time try.
If you looked close you could find goofs, but from 10 feet... OK.
You'll get what you pay for. Look for refereals. Check local clubs.
Make soem phone calls. Find out when the slow period is for your area
and try bargaining. Some shops will go the extra to get some carry
over money in their off season.
On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 09:27:09 -0700, "Desert Lurker"
1965 Mustang Fastback 2+2
Vintage Burgundy w/ Black Std Interior
289 ci 4v V8 oem A Code
C4 Auto converted to AODE
8" Trak Lok
Vintage 40 wheels
BF Goodrich gForce T/A 225/50ZR-16 KDWS tires
Built in San Jose, CA on my birthday, May 10th ; )
Restoration by: Cool Mustang Restorations Cool, CA
Emberglo is a great color. Indian Fire is another favorite of mine. My
sister had a Medium Copper 73 Montego 351. Good running car. Look at what
they call a Montego now. Something seriously got lost in the gene pool...
For me, it's better to hire the job out. I don't have the time,
tools, or patience to do it correctly. I'll just screw it up.
Here's how I pick a paint color. Walk around the parking and take a
look. That's how I found a Ford Mist Blue for my '69 FB. Oncce you see
a color you like, go to the dealership and get the code. Looking at
paint chips just doesn't tell me enough.
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