Paint?

I am starting to sand all of the [4 layers] of old paint off of the '77 bug. What is a good primer to use over the bare metal to keep it from rusting? How much paint does a bug usually take? Is that inside and out or just the outside? I will be painting it in my driveway. :-( It's all I've got... I will have to use tarps to keep the paint from drifting... Now if I could only talk the neighbor into letting me use his garage...

4play (@\|/@)(.\~/.)
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On Sat, 05 Jul 2003 00:39:35 GMT, "\(O\\|/O\)\(.\\~/.\)" ran around screaming and yelling:

a self etching primer is what you should consider on bare metal...then epoxy primer on that...(epoxy primers can be thinned down and used as a "self-etching" primer in most cases, but check with the paint manufacturer). epoxy primer "seals" where "regular" building primers do not, they are pourous and will allow moisture to get to the metal and cause surface rust..."Old Man" is a great resourse for paint and body techniques, and i hope he will respond to your post. you might also check out John Henry's site (thebugshop.org, click on "tech" then DIY paintjob) he has an article where he painted a car at home... good luck Joey

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

Joey is right. Epoxy primer is the only way to go as far as I'm concerned. Seals micro-rust in and seals water out. It's great for those long term projects where you are concerned by flash rust forming. Just make sure you buy epoxy that is designed for DTM (direct to metal) application.

My normal procedure is to strip to bare metal, apply epoxy, and let it dry for a couple of days. Before applying filler or 2K primer, I will need to sand again. As expected, the resand is eliminated if you are able to topcoat the epoxy within its time range.

I have pretty much eliminated self-etch primer in my life. If I want to do an etch or deal with micro-rust, I use a metal treatment (Metal Ready, Picklex, & etc.) before applying the epoxy. I do keep a rattle can of self-etch around just in case I have a small cut-thru during sanding.

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Reply to
Oldman

Why do people keep doing this? Paint that's sticking is already the best primer you can buy, isn't it?

I'd like some professional input here!!

Bobby

TX 56 BUG (w/'phores!)

"(O\\|/O)(.\\~/.)" wrote:

Reply to
Bob Johnson

I'm not a pro, but I agree; if the original paint is sound (not the 4 layers mentioned) I wouldn't strip it.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

The only other reason to strip is if you want to rework old bodywork or suspect there is rust. On my latest project I sanded down the second paint job and shot

1K over it and then shot the color/clear over that. My other two I strpped them completely because the paint was not sound.

--Dan E

Reply to
Braukuche

Reply to
Ben Boyle

Reply to
Ben Boyle

The thing to remember when doing a paint job is what you expect the outcome to be. theres a big difference in show quality then daily driver paint jobs. cost is the major issue. in an case it is a good idea to strip off multi layers of paint . the original paint does make a good base and can help you detect and smooth out small imperfections. use rust converter on the places that have developed any rust and cover the car completly with epoxy primer then a filler primer then your paint. I normally order 3 quarts of paint to do a complete beetle.(this depends on the paint used and mixing rato with hardners and reducers.

You can e-mail me direct if you have any ?'s

Reply to
Kafertoys

Bobby, reading through the posts, I would say he is getting some professional advise.

I have repainted cars without stripping them and it is a done all the time. Personally though, I won't repaint (without stripping) a car that has had a previous repaint. Besides having to depend on the original paint job, you also have to depend on some unknown painter, who may or may not have known his business.

Look at it another way. It already as 4 layers of paint. He is going to need a sealer (to protect the old paint), and 2 coats of color. That's 7 layers. That's assuming of course, he won't be putting any 2K primer on.

If he is going to use a basecoat/clearcoat system, there will be sealer, 2 coats of base, and 2 or 3 coats of clear. Then he would be running 8-9 layers.

Once you start adding layers of paint, you start losing the crispness in your body details. It's easy to spot a car that has had multiple repaints. Stripping eliminates that problem.

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Reply to
Oldman

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