67 GTA - best header option

I have a stock GTA- super clean and up to now all stock. I would like to start building up the horsepower a little, nothing crazy, but peppy. (suspension is already done) Right now its the 289 w/2bb....I would like to add headers, carb, cam and manifold. I would like to keep it looking stock. Can somebody help me with a plan, I am not to worried about the money. I just want to do it right and not de-value the car.

Thanks

Mike Poretti

Reply to
Michael Poretti
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On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:14:03 -0800, "Michael Poretti" wrote something wonderfully witty:

If it is currently stock & straight, anything you do to it will begin to devaluate it. If you have to do anything, pull the original engine and put it up on a stand and then build a second engine to drop in. That way you can always return it to total stock.

Reply to
ZombyWoof

Do what you want to it. Just keep all the old parts.

Reply to
Mark C.

Equal length long tube headers will give you the most hp benefit. They are a tight fit tho.

You might consider making mods like were done "back in the day"

Shelby style Tri Y headers would be one way to go down that path.

I would also change intake manifold and carburetor. An Edelbrock Performer RPM or a vintage Edelbrock F4B would be a good choice. You could get an Autolite 4100 carb from Pony Carburetors. It is the stock Mustang Carb and is a good unit.

If you want serious hp you could have your head ported. There is a company in LA that CNC machines heads for a very reasonable price. There was an article on them in Hot Rod magazine within the past year.

Erich

Reply to
Kathy and Erich Coiner

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 07:10:19 -0800, "Mark C." wrote something wonderfully witty:

That is almost a given. I just hate to see classic unmolested cars that have managed to survive this long get molested at this late date.

The poster did mention resale value. Unmolested will always bring a premium regardless of if you keep the parts to put it back together. It breaks my heart every time I see any old classic that has been stripped, jacked, or otherwise modified for somebodies idea of "better". Much better to put the money into restoration then modification.

Reply to
ZombyWoof

Restomod shows are cropping up here and there (one coming up in Reno). Since it's new, a means of classifying restos was needed depending on level of restore. So, they are divided first by year groups (ie 64-66,

67-68, 69-70, etc). Then by the level of modification within the year group. The first is lightly modded and which can easily be returned to original, while the last involves cutting the body etc (ie removing the top from a coupe to make a roadster). In the middle would be things like conversions to rack and pinion, etc, but which can still be turned back with a bit of effort but no "rebuilding".

If you are considering resale value, being able to put it back to original is highly desirable. Save the old parts.

If your intent is to have a car to enjoy and to heck with ever selling it (although unmarried drivers may get a shock after the wedding), do what you want to make it "yours". And, to heck what others may think of what you did as long as you are pleased with the end result.

Having said that, I, too, am saddened by the permanently disappearing classics in their originally intended form. And by those classics being hauled out of the USA by wealthy buyers in other countries. These are our heritage as Americans.

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!

1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Reply to
Spike

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:28:06 -0800, Spike wrote something wonderfully witty:

And that was the aspect of the question I was addressing. There simply aren't that many "unmolested" cars of all brands left out there. The ones that are demand a mighty hefty premium.

Reply to
ZombyWoof

Our responses probably drifted through the ethereal ectoplasm of the space time continuum and arrived at the same conclusion(s).

I am making mods to mine. BUT, mine are got comfort (like seats with better lumbar support and a decent stereo) and safety (intermittent wipers and 3 point seatbelts). Yet nothing has been altered in such a way that it can not be returned to total stock. The exterior lines are maintained so that to the casual observer, nothing looks different. No high rise hood, no wings, air foils, blowers, Shelby quarter windows, etc.

And at $3 per gall>On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:28:06 -0800, Spike wrote

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!

1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Reply to
Spike

Not all of us view our Mustangs as commodity investments, and you're being too strict with your recommendations. The idea he wants to increase its performance indicates plans to drive it, not sell it. As long as he keeps the old parts, and doesn't cut the car up, he can add

100hp to it if he wants without de-valuing the car a single bit. This is more true of vintage Mustangs than most any other vintage car, in fact.
Reply to
Wound Up

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