If one only needed to change one singe alxe, what would be the cheapest easiest procedure for swapping them?
My son decided to steal my wifes car, slamming into something and shattering the rim, rotor, and bending the rim-mounting flange. I have ordered the correct axle but have never been inside of an 8.8 before, and seeing as I have a week before the axle arrives just thought I'd bone up on some information from the group...
Wm
There is only one procedure for swapping out a drive axle on these.....
Cheap ain't.....
If it were mine, I'd take the opportunity to replace both axle seals....
If it were mine, I'd invest in a manual rather than ask for anecdotal info from an absolute stranger before I exhausted more conventional means of knowledge (this means it looks like someone is lazy).
If it were mine, my boy would know better than to steal anything...
Go to your local library and get a manual. It's not hard to change an axle, but pictures will make it easier to understand.
Al
I thought I would ask for 'anecdotal info' only as a means as for tips, tricks, and maybe a well worn shortcut, not as an DYI for rocket science and all things gear-driven.
Calling me lazy adds nothing, but thanks for the insult. Must be nice to be so bold and brazen towards 'an absolute stranger'
Trying to impress your will upon others is idiotic. Its called guidance, and you will either learn to use it or watch it shrugged off the shoulders of those not quickened to use it.
Sorry, Jim may be a cynic.. as a professional shop guy he ALSO has to put up with blanket aspersions cast on his trade, which colors his responses. Not to mention, some asking advice seem to want to receive step-step instructions rather than spending a few bucks for even a general reference book, like Haynes.
THAT SAID, if you reread what you and he wrote, I think you'll find it was you over-reacting as much as you think he did.
Inside, the procedure is pretty straightforward... once you get to the gear carrier: Remove lock bolt, remove pin, push axle in, remove keeper clip.
When you see it, you understand why Warman said replace other axle seal while you are at it.
The ONLY trick that may help involves refilling lube, which is sort of awkward for the driveway mech.
You might consider measuring lube, based on mfr capacity specs, into a sturdy sealable plastic bottle with cap modified to pass two pieces of tubing, first from bottom of bottle, long enough to easily reach filler hole.
The second just into bottle; both sealed around cap holes. Then apply a low pressure air, 2-3 lbs sq in, or gas source to push lube up into carrier.
And if it's limited slip, dont forget the friction modifier or you'll get unpleasant noises or maybe an unpleasant surprise when turning corner in the wet.
Thanks for the tip! Which was, after all, the reason I posted and yes, I won't forget the traction modifier. I've a good plastic, flat-bottom jug to do this with, and a bit of epoxy.
Wm
If you have a hand brake bleed pump (vac/press) that's the perfect pressure source
Latex adhesive caulk (inside cap) will work better than epoxy, flexible, grabs vinyl/rubber tubing.
allow a day cure
Has the Hurc tard rubbed off on you lately?
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