Has the shop tried bead sealant? It gooey black stuff, you put it on
the bead when installing the tire. Should normally seal stuff like
that unless the leak is really bad.
2001 Yamaha YZF-R6
I had a set of centerline aluminum wheels from the late 70's that had a
leak between the 2 halves. I had the tire shop dismount the tire for
me, took it home and removed the 25 year old silicone bead from the
center of the wheel and applied new silicone. I brought it back to the
tire shop and had them remount the tire and it has worked without a leak
ever since, 2 years.
Dave Wick wrote:
Many tire shops will use a bead sealer on aluminums rims... it essentially
glues the tire to the rim. Dismount the rubber, tidy up the rim with
sandpaper or a wire brush to remove any loose corrosion and have them
re-mounted using bead sealer. you can do it yourself if you like, just chalk
line the tire to the rim so you don't lose the balance. You can do it
without dismounting the tires but it's a pain in the ass to clean the rim
while trying to hold the bead down - not to mention the crap will stay
inside your tire.
Spray on bead sealer (never tried, can't vouch for it)
Brush on bead sealer (this is what the shops use)
Take off tire and clean up bead area either with a fine wire wheel on a
drill, or fine sandpaper, to polish up that area while taking off the
I have heard of different sealers like Form A Gasket #2 (IIRC an old racer's
trick), bead sealer, etc.
I have heard of people painting the bead area to stop further corrosion
using clear or POR-15 or ??? This makes sense to me. ;-)
I think I only did the fine wire wheel to clean up the Canyon alum wheels
now on my 88 XJ about 3-4 years ago. I did not paint nor use a sealer, but
I think I applied a little ATF to get the Duellers on the wheels though.
dave AKA vwdoc1
They can brush it with a wire brush in a drill bit, kind of like a Dremel
Do Not use those Seal-A-Leak cans of goo. I had a bead leak several years
ago and used some of that shit and it rusted the inside of my rim.
Just the terminology.. iron oxidizes = rust, aluminum oxidizes = dunno whut
its called. As with all metals, some grades are more porous than others and
when they oxidize or corrode the pores get bigger quicker. Salt promotes
corrosion, which is the main reason us Northerners remove the aluminum rims
in the winter.... an lemme tell ya.. its a real bitch getting traction with
just the rotors.
Rusting/corrosion is an oxidizing process. Hence aluminum can oxidize and
the "rusting" is aluminum oxide. Iron/steel rusting would produce ferrous
oxide. The colors are different - iron -red/brown and aluminum white/gray.
Aluminum rust as such is sapphire. However aluminum corrodes quite
nicely in a variety of ways.
For the OP, have the rims polished and you might think about also
having the inside [where the air goes] heavily painted. Been a
long time since I ran into stories of such, but some of the early
cast style aluminum wheels were rather porous. Thus the famous
slogan "Stop Casting Porosity"
Peter D. proclaimed:
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