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AOD carburetor kickdown???

Random daydreaming...

I have an '85 Mustang GT with the dreaded CFI/AOD induction. The car has

77K original miles on it, but the valvetrain makes quite a bit of noise over 4k (I'm assuming it's valvetrain anyway as the engine seems quiet under 4k and there's an appreciable lack of power around this RPM area).

I have a set of E7TE heads laying on the garage floor, and a stock 1983 intake and carburetor also at my disposal. I know there are fuel system considerations (lower pressure fuel input, etc), but my main concern is the kickdown for the AOD.

I'll probably end up selling this car anyway, as I don't really have any desire to have a carbureted automatic. My original plans for this car were to convert it to SEFI, leave it auto, and eventually put something in it that would make it a killer drag car. Having too many other projects, I've been half-heartedly trying to sell it for a while, and I figure it would move a little faster (both on the street and out of my hands) if I upgraded the induction and made it more driveable. It might also get better gas mileage with the stock 4bbl.

Does anyone know of a kickdown linkage kit to convert this car to carbureted without killing the AOD, and is there any other consideration that one might note that I haven't thought of?

Thanks,

JS

Reply to
JS
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've used this setup for several years now and it works great.

Reply to
HiPerformance289

Thanks! Is there a link for the dimensions of the bracket? I didn't see anything on there. Then again, it is pretty late...

JS

Reply to
JS

You should calculate the dimension yourself to get your application right. You can make a temporary bracket with a slotted hole to to adjust the centerline dimension for optimun linear travel of the cable, then fab a permanent bracket with a round hole. The same concept works with Edelbrock carbs. I prefer a Honda or Harley clutch cable over the Lokar cable. The installation in the photos looks like it will rattle apart after a few thousand miles. You can do better.

C8oe

Reply to
W3tac8oe

JS, I have pictures of the bracket I made as well as the template for it. Email me at mkiehl AT austin DOT rr DOT com and I will send them to you.

Reply to
HiPerformance289

Lentech uses the Lokar cable and Holley bracket kit for 69 bucks. Lentech is at 613-838-5390 (Canada). Holley themselves recommends the bracket from Total Performance in Michigan (down the road from Father Ford) at 586-468-3073.

CobraJet TS#1, AHPBBFM

Reply to
CobraJet

Thanks a bunch, CJ. I might just do this and actually keep the car as a daily driver for the summer to keep miles off the Cobra... something a little more fun than the FWD turbo Probe (which makes a great winter beater though). That is, if the problem really is the heads and if I can get it running good with the carb and pass PA emissions....

I didn't know that stuff existed. Last I asked, I don't think it was available. Maybe it's time I get a rebuild kit for my old 4bbl....

Anyone know if there's anything else stupid that I have to watch for in this swap?

Ahh... just remembered the fun ignition system stuff - currently EEC-IV. Great fun.

JS

Reply to
JS

I remembered that *someone* had one that I had seen about 4 years ago, but I had to email Lentech and Holley to get the specifics. When all else fails, go to the source.

The computer goes in to the trash. Nothing for it to do. You have a fuel return line in the car?

CobraJet

Reply to
CobraJet

Good point. Just as I start looking into making it a viable driver again though, I hear talk of interest in buying it as is... we'll see how that goes.

Ignition by MSD then most likely - I think there's an old 6A box lying around that I might be able to snatch up - if not, plenty of Duraspark boxes available. The only problem is that I don't believe I have a good vacuum-advance distributor. I'm trying to do this with as many parts as are already available to me because I'd rather sell it than drive it, but if I can't get rid of it, I might as well drive it.

I'd assume that it does have a fuel return line, just considering it has a fuel pressure regulator and an electric pump (though I'm pretty sure it's not in-tank if I remember my years correctly). I realize that I either need to swap on an earlier-model front cover/fuel pump/cam eccentric or use a fuel pressure regulator suited for carburetor use. Are there any special concessions that need to be made due to the return line?

JS

Reply to
JS

I'm a little hazy about this, as I looked into changing my '86 Cougar over from CFI to carb years ago. If you are using the high-pressure in-tank pump, you need to use a regulator to knock it down to 6 or 7 pounds, and use the return line to bleed off excess fuel. If you have an inline pump, then just buy a low-pressure electric Holley or Carter to replace it with; no diddling with mechanical pumps, and you wouldn't need a return line. I vaguely remember someone selling a low pressure in-tank pump specifically for carb swap-overs, but I can't remember who. Sorta like the AOD bracket thing.

CobraJet

Reply to
CobraJet

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